Canada Holiday Blog 4 - 26th to 31st August 2018

Day 28   -              26^th August 2018               Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Our car shows the temperature outside. Each time we’ve gotten in the car here in the carpark at our Canmore accommodation it has told us it’s either 24C or 25C. Once we get out into the real world, the temperature drops dramatically – they must heat the car park!

Car parking at Canmore

Another smoky morning but getting better (slowly).  Headed to Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and stopped at the Visitors Centre to get maps and info. Got the wrong map so we had to rely on other maps and Les’ itinerary. Arrived at Little Highwood Pass picnic area which did not have any picnic tables, so we sat in the car for morning tea listening to the coyote in the hills howling (well that is what other people in the car park said it was). We also saw chipmunk with long tail and lots of little birds.

On to Highwood Pass which at 2,206 metres is the highest paved pass road in Canada!! 

Currently 6 degrees, but we are tough and decided to do a walk. We did the Highwood Meadows walk which was level and easy however Les’ fingers are starting to get cold as he has forgotten his gloves. He has one hand in his pocket and has wrapped the other with his handkerchief as this hand is holding his hiking stick. We also started the Ptarmigan Cirque walk which comes off the Highwoods Meadows trail. This trail is very steep at the beginning and rises from 2,206 to approx. 2,309 metres in only about 1 km. We didn’t know what the rest of the walk was like so after we got to the first lookout we turned and headed back. We since found out that we had done the hardest part and the rest was a lot easier and great scenery. Oh well, live and learn. 

Ptarmigan Cirque Trail

Local Residents

Back to car at 12:15 and stopped at the “Rock Glacier” which is a large rock screed. Saw several pikas (rock rabbits). 

Rock Glacier

Pika with nesting material

Pika

Lunch at Elbow Pass Picnic Area which also did not have any picnic tables! Walked to Elbow Lake which is a steep climb along an old road which is also used by horses. We start at 1,983 metres and arrived at the lake at elevation of 2,092 metres. A climb of over 100 metres over a distance of 1.4 kilometres. When we arrived at the lake the sun was out and most of the smoke had disappeared. Some great views and well worth the climb. 

Elbow Lake

Elbow lake

Back to car arriving at 2:30 and had afternoon tea at 3:00 at Wedge Pond (at a picnic table!). Temperature 14 degrees.

Next stop was a waterfall for Les. Troll Falls is a 3.4 km return walk to a nice waterfall. The walk is fairly level and popular. 

Troll Falls

Back at 4:50 and headed for home via O’Shaughnessy Falls which is on the side of the road. Saw 2 RCMP (Royal Canadian Mounted Police) cars that had stopped other cars along the road (or could have been the same RCMP car twice). In Alberta when an emergency car has flashing lights you have to slow to 60 kph until you pass it or until it passes you. Showers as we head home and Joy is hoping for rain/snow overnight and a clear sunny day tomorrow. What are the chances of that???

Day 29   -              27^th August 2018               Banff

Today is another rest day (well sort of) so we had a well earned sleep-in and did not have breakfast until 9:45!! Overnight it had started raining and on the higher peaks it snowed. Had a relaxing morning and then walked into town to have a look around Canmore with beautiful blue sky. SO, Joy was right!!!

View from balcony

Mountains near Canmore 

Walked around town for a while and decided on Santa Lucia Trattoria. Joy ordered cannelloni and Les ordered chicken parmigiana as the meal he wanted was going to take ½ hour. About 40 minutes later we got our meals!! The waitress was friendly enough, but she blamed the chef for the delay. The food was nice but not sure if it was worth the wait.

After lunch we found the Quilt shop that Joy had found out about. 25 minutes after she entered, she came out and had only spent $26! Walked back to the condo along the path that follows the river. When we were walking back we passed under some pine trees and there were pine nuts falling on the ground. We looked up and found a squirrel in the top of the tree picking pine nuts and dropping them on the ground – actually it looked like it was throwing them down!

Quiet afternoon preparing for our early start tomorrow.

Day 30   -              28^th August 2018               Lake Louise

Today is an early start as the car park at Lake Louise is notorious for filling up early. Up at 6:00 and left at 6:30 in the dark. Arrived at Lake Louise (elevation 1,745 metres) at 7:40 and the car park is about 20 percent full. We had breakfast and the car park is starting to fill and filling fast. 5 degrees but Les remembered his gloves today so we should be fine. 

Lake Louise

At 8:10 we headed off to do the Lake Agnes Tea House Walk which is a 7 km return walk with an elevation gain of about 400 metres to the Tea House which has an elevation of 2,135 metres.

The walk is a constant climb that levels out a bit the higher we get, but the track gets rougher as well. We made it to the top in about 1 hr 20 mins. The track is quite busy. 

Beehive and Mirror Lake on way to Lake Agnes Tea House

 On way to Lake Agnes Tea House

View from  Lake Agnes Tea House

 After a rest at the tea house (we didn’t buy anything as the queue was way too long) and a muesli bar to replenish our energy, we decided to head back down but not before Joy was “attacked” by one of the resident chipmunks or squirrels (need to check this one). One came up and scrambled though the straps on Joy's backpack that was on the bench and pushed her thigh – probably wanting the crumbs she had dropped when eating her bar. Later as we stood up one came running around her feet. 

Joy with friend at Lake Agnes Tea House

We started the track down taking a different route which joins up with the main track but is a bit shorter but steeper. 

Shorter but steeper track back down

Arrived back at the car at 11:15 and the car park is full, and cars are being turned away. Had morning tea and then did the Fairview Lookout walk (elevation 1,850 metres). This is listed as an easy walk. Easy maybe but very steep and strenuous! Good view from the top and a few photos before the long downhill slog back to the car. 

Fairview Lookout. Rooms at the hotel start at about $1,200 without a lake view or car parking or meals!!

So far today we had seen chipmunks, marten and a mouse with some nesting material.

Arrived at the car at 12:25 and the car park is still full. There are about 15/20 staff members at various spots in the car park and on the road back to the highway directing traffic through intersections. Lots of people and this is not a weekend! There were staff members directing cars to either continue on or go into the parking areas, based on whether there are spaces available. When we were leaving the car park, we saw a car that must have been told to continue on – the passengers got out of the car, moved the barriers stopping cars from coming in to the car park from the Exit end, and the car entered the car park heading for a spot that had only recently been vacated. How rude! But, the staff member from the Entry end of the car park saw them and came to head them off – we didn’t stay to see what happened, but assume they were NOT rewarded for doing the wrong thing.

Started down the Bow Valley Parkway which has a 60 kph speed limit. Stopped at Corral Creek for lunch and on to Castle Cliffs where we took a photo to recreate a photo taken by Joy back in 1991.

Castle Cliffs at Castle Mountain

Stopped at Vermillion Lakes near Banff and Norquay Lookout (1,666 metres) (looking over Banff) and did more 1991 recreation photos. Got talking to a man at the lookout that is from the US but visits every year. He is a keen cross-country skier (100 km, 2 range traverse self-sufficient!) but is also writing an article about ski history including stuff about Rogers Pass that we were at a week or so ago. Back at the accommodation at 3:55 and is 16 degrees.

Day 31   -              29^th August 2018               Lake Minnewanka & Johnston Canyon

Another lazy morning as we are not heading out until after lunch, so Les did Trip Advisor reviews and Joy did some knitting. After lunch we headed out to Lake Minnewanka. This time there were car parking spots and we got a space as a car left. We did the walk to Stewart Canyon. Whilst walking along the canyon towards the bridge a tree fell into the water – and yes, it made a noise, a BIG noise, because we were there to hear it. 

Stewart Canyon

Arrived back at the car at 3:00 pm and drove to Rockbound Lake trailhead where we had afternoon tea in the car as it is now starting to spit showers. But we are tough and went on the walk to Silverton Falls. The first part of the walk was easy however we then had a steep climb to the top lookout. The lookout is perched on top of a steep ridge. After a few photos we headed back down and photos of the cascades at the base of the valley and back to the car.

Les at Silverton Falls

Result of Les' photo

Track back from Silverton Falls

A squirrel that Joy upset!!

Next stop was Johnston Canyon where we were worried about getting a car park, in fact the reason we did these walks in the afternoon was to avoid the busy part of the day. The car park is about 90% full. The car park sign actually has a section that shows the number of car parks available in each of section 1 and 2 although not sure how accurate the number was. The Lower falls is 1 ½ km and is very popular. The walk has a series of platform type bridges that hang off the edge of the cliffs which takes away from the “natural look”. 

Johnston Canyon

Johnston Canyon

Johnston Canyon

It has started light rain by now and we finally reach the lower falls and line up with the masses on the bridge to ??? Not sure what we had lined up for, but it must be good as everyone is doing it. They go into the cave and come out a minute or so later. After about 20 minutes we get in and find that the cave goes through and opens to the falls and allows for a close up shot of the falls. 

Johnston Canyon

Queue to see what????

What the queue was for....

Took a few photos and decided to give the Upper falls a miss as it is a longer walk and the weather is getting worse. Got back to the car at 5:55 pm and headed back to Canmore. The rain started to get steadier and was steady rain when we reached Canmore. Arrived home at 6:40 pm.

Day 32   -              30^th August 2018               Canmore to Glacier View Inn (Icefields Parkway)

Time to move on today and after 6 nights in the same place it was a bit of a shock having to pack up everything and pack the car again. 6 nights in one place is the longest stay in one place for the whole holiday so it was good not having to pack every few days.

Headed off at 8:25 with 10 degrees. Canmore elevation 1,320 metres. First stop at 9:30 to 10:00 was for morning tea at Herbert Lake just north of Lake Louise and the temperature has dropped to 7 degrees so after a few photos of the lake we had morning tea in the car. We are getting pretty good at having morning/afternoon tea in the car!! Stopped for photos at Mosquito Creek and Crowfoot Glacier where we did the 1991 recreation photo. 

At Mosquito Creek

Crowfoot Glacier

On to Peyto Lake (elevation 2,108 metres) at 10:55 where it was very busy with lots of cars and RVs. There was also a 5/10-minute wait in line to use the toilets! A 10-minute walk along an undulating paved path to the lookout over Peyto Lake which was very crowded. You cannot get a good overall photo from the lookout as lots of people walked further down on the ridge to get photos, so we did the same thing. We are starting to get very tired of inconsiderate people getting in the way when trying to get good photos. We wait our turn, but they do not!! Anyway, after getting yet another 1991 recreation photo we decided to do the circuit walk as we know most of the crowd will not do that one. Good decision. Very few people on this walk and we met a couple who directed us to an even better lookout which only had about 8 people.  

Peyto Lake from less crowded lookout.

After we finished with our photos a group of about 8 turned up and hogged the best spots – one guy even raced up and stood on a big rock right in the middle of the view, spread his arms wide and yelled. And why do they always want photos with themselves in it? Back to the car at 12:20 and Joy has taken over driving for the first time since the first day in Canada. Her cold and coughing fits are over and her knee is fine although it has a lump the other one doesn’t.

Stopped at Saskatchewan River Crossing (12:30 elevation 1,440 metres) to see if it was suitable for lunch. It has a restaurant and a cafeteria, so we opted for the cafeteria and got there just before several coaches. Joy had fish and chips and Les had chicken tenders and chips. Considering where it is located (middle of nowhere) it was reasonably priced and quite nice food. The meals come out in the typical American “Red plastic basket with red and white paper napkin”.  Also had bought some pastries for afters but had these for afternoon tea. 

Lunch

While we were having lunch 2 old fellows pulled up on motor bikes. And when we say old we mean probably in their 60/70’s. As one got off his bike you could tell he was very stiff and took a long time to get moving.

Old Bikers

Quick stop at Coleman Creek for more photos (yes lots of photos today as the scenery is great even with grey skies). Stopped at several other spots along the road including the Big Bend but the weather is closing in and starting to rain. 

Big Bend Lookout

Where have all the picnic tables gone? They all went here for holidays!!!

Stopped at Parker Ridge where we are planning a 5 km/2 hour walk but decide it is not worth it as it is now sleeting. On to the Glacier View Inn (1,976 metres) (Athabasca Glacier) where we are staying and were able to book in at 3:00 even though check-in is normally 4:00. Great room, probably the best in the Inn. There are Glacier view rooms and Non-glacier view rooms. We had tried to book non-glacier view room, but they were all taken so got a Glacier View Room (at only $20 plus tax, extra for the night). There are about 16 rooms that have glacier views and of these only 2 are on the corner and therefore get view of the Glacier and the valley. Of these rooms one is bigger than the other and that is the one we got. Great view of Glacier and great view of the mountain range looking south. Even a view from the toilet!! Had afternoon tea and watched the weather change on a regular basis. If you do not like the weather wait 5 minutes and it will change. This is also the location for the Glacier Tours so is very busy.

View from front window of Glacier View Inn room

View from side window of Glacier View Inn room

View from front window of Glacier View Inn room

Glacier View Inn room. Best one in the Inn.

Kids enjoying the view

Glacier View Inn. Our room was the corner one on the top floor. One window facing the Glacier (the window facing left) and four windows facing down the valley (the first four facing right).

The only options for meals are the restaurant (fancy, limited menu and expensive) or the Chalet which has pre-packaged sandwiches and some hot burgers, pizza, etc. We gave them a miss ($8 per slice of pizza or $35 for whole pizza) and have the crispbread and cheese we had planned for tea. After the buses and tourists left it was quiet and we had a good night’s sleep.

Day 33   -              31^st August 2018               Glacier View Inn to Jasper (Glacier Tour & Icefields Parkway)

Get ready for the 9:00 Glacier Tour. The weather is much better today with a fair amount of blue sky. After packing the car and Joy having her morning coffee we head off on the Glacier Tour. We are loaded onto a normal coach at the Inn and are driven about 5 minutes to the change over point (the driver is a Kiwi lady). At the change over we go from the coach to an All Terrain 6 wheel drive vehicle. They take us over the Lateral Moraine. This is the bank of soil/rocks, etc that run along the side of the glacier. As the glacier melts, etc this leaves a ridge and the drive down this is about 36 degrees. This is like driving down at about the same steepness as walking down normal stairs. We are now on the Glacier itself and head to an area where we are allowed to walk about and take photos.  It is very cold and very windy and the ice is slippery so we try to walk on the rougher parts of the ice. As we headed to the upper area suddenly Joy dropped with one of her feet going through the glacier (which is supposed to be 200 metres thick at this point). By the time she stopped she had one leg fully in the glacier/water and was sitting on the glacier. Les panicked more than Joy and grabbed her as he was worried she was going to fall all the way through the ice. In doing so he pulled her backwards and she had trouble getting out. After he stopped pulling Joy was able to get herself out but is soaked all the way up her leg. (NOTE Les’ instant reaction was the try to save Joy, not get out his camera, so we don’t have any photos of Joy “breaking” the glacier. NOTE Waterproof Hiking Boots are not waterproof when they are plunged 2 ½ feet into a glacier!!) Joy also said that her foot did not touch anything firm in the hole so we have no idea how deep it is. 

The hole Joy made in the Glacier. To gauge the size we have marked a footprint next to the hole.

Once we told someone about the hole Joy had made and it had been marked off with warning signs, we got some photos of the glacier and then back on the ATV. Joy has her leg wrapped in Les’ rain jacket to try and warm it up. (The next day we could see the bruises on her leg from going through the ice and yes it was the same leg that she hurt the knee of way back in Auckland).

Athabasca Glacier

Athabasca Glacier. Note Joy's wet back leg!

Kids at Athabasca Glacier

Joy at Athabasca Glacier with hole in glacier in front of her.

ATV at Athabasca Glacier

We head back up the 36 degree track and back to the change over point and get back on the coach which takes us to the Glacier Skywalk. Along the way we are told a stack of stuff including the fact that we are at a point where there are 3 glaciers (actually more but..) where one flows north to Alaska, one flows south to down the west coast of North America, and one flows east to Hudson Bay on the other side of Canada! We did the Skywalk (you can take an audio tour or guided tour or just do the walk, we just did the walk so we could go at our own pace). Joy went out on the glass floored platform but Les didn’t. Joy said you could not really see much looking down due to the reflection on the glass and that it would be much worse if the floor was the metal mesh! 

Glacier Skywalk

Glacier Skywalk

Joy on the glass walkway above the canyon, Glacier Skywalk

The buses run back to the Inn every 15 minutes and we finished just as one was ready to leave so did not have to wait. There were only 3 passengers and the driver was a Pommy and knew where Bathurst was as he has been there. He is planning on moving to Bondi as he has a brother living there. We also found out that the staff (of the inn, tour company and park staff) of between 200 & 300 live in staff quarters near the Inn and it costs them $12 per day inc meals.

After we got back Joy changed her wet trousers, socks, etc (but not boots, so will just have to tough it out with a wet boot) and we headed to Parker Ridge to do the walk we missed yesterday. Weather is still changing but very little rain, so we headed off at 11:45 with temperature of 6 degrees less wind chill factor, and considering there are ice particles hitting us you can be assured it was cold. We start at elevation of 2,000 metres and rise to approx. 2,300 metres over only 2 km or so with ½ km of flat walking at the top. Took some more 1991 recreation photos of the Columbia Icefield (one of the glaciers that flows east) before heading back down. The walk is lots of switch backs so is not too bad a walk although a bit rocky and rough ground. Took 2 hours return.

Very cold on Parker Ridge

Columbia Icefield, Parker Ridge

Drove back to lake at base of Athabasca Glacier for lunch in the car (more crispbreads and cheese) before heading off at 2:10. Stopped at Tangle Falls for photos with more people insisting on climbing in dangerous spots and ruining every one else’s photos who do not want people in them.

Next stop Sunwapta Falls which again is very popular as the walk is only about 100 metres. Lots of water going over this fall. 

Sunwapta Falls

A/tea in the car. Last falls for the day was Athabasca Falls which is again very popular with several coaches in the parking lot. Fortunately, you cannot get over the fences, so you have to get your selfie from the lookouts. One of the lookouts was full of people taking photos and others in line waiting. When Les was just about to move to the fence for his turn a fellow decided to take the spot, so he was gently shoved aside by Les!! Joy tried to do 1991 recreation photo but a tree has grown in the spot, so she took a photo of the tree!!! And a near enough photo as well.

Athabasca Falls

Athabasca Falls

Since we’ve been in the Jasper National Park we’ve been noticing more and more dead pine trees in the forest – will have to find what the problem is. (Note: It is the Mountain Pine Beetle. Occurs naturally and is killed by fire or extreme cold. As the winters are not as cold as they used to be the beetles are not dying off as much during winter and that means more dead trees)

Arrived in Jasper , unpacked then grocery shopping. If you think the aisles in your supermarket are tight try the supermarket in Jasper and with shopping trolleys where the back wheels do not pivot (which is standard in Canada by the looks). Also this is the first accommodation in Canada where we have an “Australian toilet” ie push button flush instead of handle and only a small amount of water in the bowl compared to ½ full. We have also now dropped to approx. 1,064 metres elevation.