Canada Holiday Blog 5 - 1st to 10 September 2018

Day 34  -              1^st September 2018         Jasper – Rest Day – Wedding Anniversary

Today was a Rest Day and so the normal things on rest day. Slept in, washing, diary, photos, reading, relaxing, etc.

Walked into town at 6:00 to have our wedding anniversary dinner at Fiddle River Restaurant. We had booked the table back in early June requesting a table by the window as it was our wedding anniversary but when we got there we had a normal table although we could see part of the view. As all the other tables closer to the window were being used there was nothing we could do about it but Les will remember when he does his Trip Advisor review! Nice meal with Joy having Elk and Buffalo Meatloaf. Les had Prawn, Bacon & Mushroom Fettuccini. We both had Maple Flavoured Cheesecake for dessert. Checked out a few shops on the way home. Most are still open but the Rocky Mountaineer train had recently pulled in so sure they stay open to service the tourists from the train.

Day 35  -              2^nd September 2018        Jasper – Lake Maligne Cruise & Maligne Gorge

An early start today as we have to be at Lake Maligne by 9:00 for our 9:30 cruise. Most of the road is a 60 kph zone and it is about 50 km so need to allow an hour to get there.

Headed off at 7:42 and it is grey and only 4 degrees. As we drove down Maligne Road we passed 2 deer on the side of the road. A bit further on we noticed 2 cars stopped on the road and when we met them noticed a moose grazing on the side of the road. 

Moose

When we reached Lake Maligne it had dropped to 1 degree and Joy has not brought her gloves, scarf or beanie so we shared Les’ gloves. We each had one hand in our pocket and the other had a glove on! Boarded the boat at 9:20 and headed off up the lake to Spirit Island. The driver (or should that be Captain) of the boat was Patrick and Sam was the tour guide. Sam is from Wamboin near Queanbeyan NSW. Had a 15-minute stop at Spirit Island (which is in fact not an island but a peninsula!). Back on the boat and headed back to the jetty and the little drizzle has settled in now. Morning tea in the car again. Often when the weather is like this and there is an option of a café morning tea we would take it, but the café at Maligne Lake is horrendously over-priced – over $5 for a small coffee!!!

Spirit Island

On to Maligne Canyon which is very spectacular but also very popular being so close to Jasper. Only took 1 figure 8 circuit of the car park to notice a car about to pull out and managed to get that car spot. Spent 1 ½ hours walking along the trails that cross 1^st, 2^nd and 3^rd bridges. Lots of photos. 

Maligne Canyon

Maligne Canyon

Maligne Canyon

Maligne Canyon

Maligne Canyon

There are actually 6 bridges in total but that makes for a long walk. Back to the car and drove to the car park which is right at bridge 6 and the canyon is no longer a canyon but still a nice river.

Home for lunch at 2:00 and decide to give the planned afternoon walk a miss and have a relaxing afternoon. Hopefully the weather will improve tomorrow and we can catch up on the walks, but the forecast is for much of the same. NOTE: Canadian weather forecast are like Australian forecasts, they change almost every day!

Day 36  -              3^rd September 2018         Jasper

Woke to a cold morning with low cloud and SNOW on the higher peaks. It was 5 degrees but being hardy souls, we decided to go out and do some walks at 8:55 am. First walk was “Old Fort Point Trail” (3.8 km) which is only 2 km from Jasper (keep this in mind). This is classified as a medium walk but starts off straight up with a series of staircases before steep uphill to the lookout at the top of the hill. 

What a way to start a walk!!!!

Great views of the surrounding mountains although there is still mist and some low cloud but the weather is slowly clearing. After the necessary photos we headed off on the rest of the walk which is basically 3.4 km to return back to the same elevation that we started from only 400 metres ago! 

Great view from the top over Jasper township.

The track meanders through various forests and after starting through a birch forest Joy spotted something off to her left and just pointed and said nothing. Les turned and saw what she was pointing at. A bear (black bear not grizzly bear). The bear was about 20 metres away and heading towards us but only slowly. Joy said she saw the bear’s tongue as it was licking its lips (maybe it thought “lunch…”). Joy kept walking at a steady pace (heartbeat going much faster) and Les managed to get 1 photo as he also kept going at a steady pace (his heartbeat also much faster). 

Birch tree forest

Other side of birch tree forest. Taken without telephoto lens!!!!

Looked back a few times but fortunately it was not following us. We were surprised to spot a bear so close to Jasper itself. Caught up to a couple who had just been through where we saw the bear and they had not seen the bear and their bear spray was in the car! I think that’s worse than us, as we don’t even have any. Finished the rest of the walk at 10:40am with no further excitement.

Had morning tea in the car (really wish they would put picnic tables in the picnic areas) and headed to Pyramid Lake for our next walk “Overlook Loop” (6 km) medium grade walk. On the access road to the lake we passed several cars that had stopped (not really enough space to pull off on the side of the road) and Joy noticed they were taking photos of an elk. Anyway, back to the walk. This is a classic example of where horses should be banned from walking trails. The trail is only really wide enough for walkers but also it was muddy and you can see where the horses have cut up the track badly. We actually passed 3 riders on the walk. There is also the issue of horse poo all over the track. 

Track cut up by horses.

Again, this walk is a climb to the top of a hill and back down again in a loop. 

View from the top.

On the way back down Joy was in front and passed a shrub about 4 feet by 4 feet. No issue but when Les got to it a grouse (type of bird) shot out of the bush. Not sure who got the most fright, the grouse or Les (heartbeat going flat out now!!). It also gave Joy a fright.

Headed into town for afternoon tea at “The Bear Paw Bakery” (average coffee, nice slices but nothing to rave about), and to Our Native Land Gallery.

Day 37  -              4^th September 2018         Jasper – Sylvan Lake

One of our longest days today so up early and as we have packed a lot of stuff yesterday we were able to head off at 7:15 with temperature 5 degrees low cloud/mist/fog but predictions of a clear day. Stopped at “The Bear Paw Bakery” for rolls and treats (Bear Paws) and left town at 7:30 and 4 degrees. First stop was Kerkeslin Goat Lick where the goats come to lick the salt from the rock but we only saw an elk at the side of the road (2 degrees). 

Elk

Photo stops at Mushroom Peak and Stutfield Glacier and the weather has started clearing with some blue sky but still some mist. 

Mushroom Peak with some blue sky

Stutfield Glacier with more blue sky.

We got down to minus 1 degree according to the car. When we passed the Glacier Skywalk that we had been on a few days previous it had snow on the railings and roof. We were going to take more photos of the Athabasca Glacier to compare the extra snow but it was fogged in – couldn’t see the glacier at all. Stopped at Parker Ridge and got photos of the extra snow on the mountains and a quick stop at the Big Bend for another photo (without rain). 

View from near Parker Ridge. Top one 31st Aug, bottom one 4th Sept.

Waterfalls on Weeping Wall and onto the Howse Pass Rest Area for morning tea and a short walk and more photos. Tried to stop at a spot for morning tea but it was for camping only. There were several Canada National Parks cars there as a car had come off the highway and crashed into several trees. It had travelled about 150 metres from the highway through bushes and into trees. It looked like it had not rolled. Probably either fell asleep or the road was icy.

Headed down David Thompson Highway which takes you out of the Rockies and stopped at Siffleur Falls Trail Staging Area before a walk to the falls and back (7 km but fairly easy except one short steep hill). 

Suspension bridge on way to Siffleur Falls

Yes, Les made it over ..... and back!

Siffleur Falls Track

Siffleur Falls Canyon

Chipmunk

Siffleur Falls

No animals other than the normal squirrels and chipmunks and birds. Good waterfall and very impressive canyon.

Back on the road and passed Two O’clock Creek at 1:59 pm (bad planning on Les’ behalf I must say!!!). Next stop was a viewpoint over Alexander Lake but just as we were getting there spotted a family of mountain goats on the side of the road. 

Mountain goats

Fish Lake for afternoon tea at 3:30 and then straight through to Rocky Mountain House to refuel and then STRAIGHT roads to Leslieville (what a name for a town) and our accommodation for the next 2 nights at the marina at Sylvan Lake.

What a name for a town!!!!

Straighttttttttttt roads

The landscape has changed significantly – we are certainly out of the mountains now! Fairly flat farmland, many with oil derricks in paddocks, along the way.

Very nice accommodation with some water view. 3 storey accommodation with garage on bottom floor, living areas on 1^st floor and bedrooms on 2^nd floor so left suitcases in the garage so we do not have to lug them up all the stairs. We’ve noticed that a lot of the homes in Canada are multi-storey, often with steep staircases. Wouldn’t want to have a mobility issue here!

Day 38  -              5^th September 2018         Sylvan Lake

Late start (11:00) today and we headed to Red Deer and the Enterprise Car Rental office. Since you can’t rent a car in Canada for more than a month, we had to re-rent the car. Worked out OK as it saves us about $100 as there are less taxes in Alberta than in Vancouver BC. After that we visited the Museum and Art Gallery (although the art gallery was only 1 room). Red Deer is the 3^rd largest city in Alberta after Edmonton and Calgary. Tried to find a café but in a city of 100,000 and no idea where to start we soon got lost so decided to head to Innisfail to find a café. Detoured via Springbrook which is an old air force base and now used as a summer cadet training facility. Bad move, as the streets are NOT on a grid system, but thankfully we had the GPS to find our way out again. Could not find anywhere for lunch so ended up in Innisfail after all. Decided to try Dairy Queen but could not locate it or any café so tried DQ (which strangely enough stands for Dairy Queen!! They have renamed the business!!).

On to the Discovery Wildlife Centre which houses animals that have been orphaned or are left after movies, etc. The best part was seeing the staff interact with the bears, and also the bear presentation. They told us what to do if you encounter a bear in the wild (just a few days late!!!).

Discovery Wildlife Centre

Went for a walk along the lake foreshore after tea. Les took some photos of the lighthouse, which is in the list of the most “Instagrammable” places in Sylvan Lake. Don’t think it functions as a lighthouse, though, so not sure exactly why it is there.

Sylvan Lake Lighthouse

Day 39  -              6^th September 2018         Sylvan Lake to Drumheller

A lazy start today as the plan was not to leave until about 10:00. Sunny beautiful day with just a hint of hazy. Had the car packed by 9:15 and headed to the “Good Earth Coffee House” so Joy could have a coffee. She was happy as it was the best coffee she has had since we started our holidays. Will have to investigate where else they have stores. Headed out of town at 9:40 towards Big Valley. Along the way we have seen crops that look like they have been harvested in rows rather than the normal harvesting the whole crop. It leaves the paddock with a stripy appearance. We have also noticed that they mow alongside the roads and make hay. Not sure who owns that or what happens to them. Maybe an option in Australia?

Canola. It has all been cut and left in rows to dry.

Hay made from grass along the roadside

Arrived at Big Valley which is a small village and had a look at the historical parts of the main street, old jail, oil derrick, church on the hill and Jimmy Jock Boardwalk which is like an old western movie set. 

Jimmy Jock Boardwalk, Big Valley

Big Valley Jail

Joy was interested in it as it had a few nick nack shops like Artsy Fartsy Emporium but lots of the stuff is just old stuff like plates, glasses, cups, etc. We did get talking to one of the locals and we asked him about the crops we had seen, and he told us it was canola and it is harvested and just lies in rows to dry and then be collected but we did not believe him as it looks like it has not been harvested in the alternating rows. Had lunch at the old railway station and saw a prairie dog before heading off at about 1:00. As I said Big Valley is a small village and in 2016 had a population of 346 BUT has an Agriflex which is their main ice facility and can seat 800 people!

As we are ahead of time have decided to go to Horsethief Canyon on the way to Drumheller rather than later this evening. Along the way we stopped and had a look at the stripey crop again, where we had access without a fence and the local was right. The crop had been harvested but because the stubble is so stiff, where the rows were the harvested part that is being left there to dry on top of the stubble made it look like it had not been harvested in those bits. Have since discovered that canola was developed in Canada, and the name derives from Canada (“can”) with “ola” added to the end to represent vegetable oil in the same way as some other branded oils.

Horsethief Canyon

Prairie dog

As we are in the Badlands the canyons are much different to those in the Rockies. Did a walk into part of the canyon and also saw more prairie dogs. They will have replaced the chipmunk/squirrels from the Rockies for the next week or so. After the canyon drove to the Bleriot Ferry. When we arrived the ferry was 2/3^rd full and just sitting waiting. After a few minutes the “captain” called us on to the ferry along with a few more cars and the ferry is now full. He is a real character and told me that because we were from Australia and driving a hire car he would not charge us for the ferry! (the ferries across the rivers are free anyway).

Bleriot ferry

Next stop was Orkney Lookout which is on the top of the hill opposite the Horsethief Lookout we had been to. 

Orkney Lookout

And then into town and to the motel where we arrived at 3:45 and the temperature is 26 (car) and 27.6 (motel sign). Settled in and had a break before heading out at 5:38 to go to Horseshoe Canyon (they have a horse theme here?). When we arrived it was closed and we found out it is because there is filming for the next 4 weeks (but do not know what is being filmed). So, we headed back into town and out to the Hoodoos for more 1991 recreation photos but also to have a look around. We were planning on coming out tomorrow, but this will make tomorrow easier as we have an ice hockey game tomorrow night. The Hoodoos are an amazing rock formation, and one of Joy’s favourite memories of this area. Since 1991 they have eroded a bit (to be expected, and a natural process), but they now have railings and steps set up in an effort to protect them from the visitors who seem to think climbing all over such formations is an acceptable thing to do.

Hoodoos

Hoodoos

Hoodoos

Home to motel at 7:05 and still 25 or 27 degrees depending on if you take the car or motel figure.

Day 40  -              7^th September 2018         Sylvan Lake to Drumheller

Another lazy start today as we are not heading out until about 10:00 as places do not open until then. Breakfast included in the motel cost so downstairs for breakfast. We thought about trying waffles, but the machines were being used and take a long time to cook so just cereal. Joy caught up on reading and Les did diary, etc.

At 9:55 headed out to Royal Tyrrell Museum to recreate a 1991 photo and also to look through the museum. At one stage we thought we would not be able to recreate the 1991 photo but finally found the 20-foot-high dinosaur! An interesting museum but after almost 2 hours all dinosaur bones look the same other than the size!!

And we were worried we might miss it......

Left at 12:10 and headed to Wayne and the “Last Chance Saloon” for lunch. The road from the highway to Wayne is only about 6 km and has 11 bridges and holds a Guinness Book of Records for the most bridges in such a short distance! The saloon is a bit run down and is a favourite place for the bikies(bikers). There is “stuff” everywhere inside and also various banknotes from many places pinned to the ceiling (inc Australian Dollars). Also on the ceiling is a bear skin and what could be a kangaroo skin. Had lunch of fish and chips (Joy) and chicken strips and chips (Les). Typical saloon type meals, fish a bit oily, chips slightly overcooked but crispy and chicken tenders seem to be generic all over Canada.

Back to Rosedale to the Suspension Bridge for some more 1991 photos and Yes, Les did cross the bridge. It is not as sturdy as the one at Siffleur Falls and sways a lot more especially as it is more popular so more people crossing it, including ½ dozen bikies!

Star Mine Suspension Bridge

Relaxed in the room before afternoon tea at the Tim Horton’s next door. Nice muffin/tart and OK coffee (but very hot). Not great but better than Starbucks, but Joy will be looking for the “Good Earth Coffee” places in Calgary!

After tea headed out for our first ever LIVE ice hockey game. Arrived at the game and got our tickets and met Dustin Edwards who had kindly arranged the tickets for us. It is general admission as it is still Exhibition games (ie pre-season) so we can sit anywhere but he recommended we sit near the players interchange box which we did. The stadium is an older version and the seats are just the timber with no backs. Glad we brought our jackets because even though it is 31 degrees outside it is cold in the stadium, which was to be expected. Tonight, Drumheller Dragons play the Brooks Bandits. So far this pre-season they have both played 4 games and won 4 games. Very good game – evenly matched teams, and it is loud and fast-paced and exciting – and after the 3 periods (a full game) it was 3 – 3. They then played extra time of 5 minutes (each normal period is 20 minutes of actual playing time) and the scores were still tied. The game went into shoot outs and unfortunately Brooks won 4 – 3!

Drumheller Dragons (grey tops) and Brooks Bandits (dark blue tops)

Gotta love a man who enjoys his job!

Day 41  -              8^th September 2018         Drumheller to Brooks

Woke to a slightly hazy day (10 degrees) and headed downstairs for free breakfast and this time the waffle maker was free so after cereal we had some waffles!

First stop was for some photos at “Dorothy” which is a very small village just down the road. We are starting to encounter some long straight roads including one stretch of 32 km dead straight!

Morning tea was at Emerson Bridge Park which is a camping area that they closed after the “Season” (which finished 4 days ago). We are allowed to use the picnic area but have to walk from the gate down to the picnic area. Up to 19 degrees and not as hazy anymore. Next stop was photos at “Patricia” which is bigger than “Dorothy” as it has a rodeo arena and also a pub!

Arrived at Dinosaur Provincial Park at 11:30 and it is up to 26 degrees! Had a look at the Viewpoint and then into the park proper and to the Visitor’s centre. Did the Coulee Loop and back to the Cretaceous Café for lunch. After lunch walked the Badlands Trail, Trail of the Fossil Hunters and Cottonwood Flats Trail. Temperature still 27 degrees. Did a few 1991 photo recreations, but some just couldn’t be done properly because the trails are now quite set and we couldn’t get to the places Joy and taken the 1991 photos from.

Dinosaur Provincial Park

Dinosaur Provincial Park

Dinosaur Provincial Park

Dinosaur Provincial Park, the trees are starting to change colour.

When Joy was at here so many years ago the facilities were nowhere near as good. There wasn’t any Visitor’s Centre, no camping area, and the Fossil sites set up to show how fossil excavation happens were just under basic covers where now they are inside buildings. But the walks and the Badlands are just how Joy remembers them (not that they would have changed, but Joy’s memories may not have been so good).

After tea headed out for another game of ice hockey this time between Brooks and Drumheller!! Yes, the same teams just different location. Hopefully Drumheller will win tonight. As this is also an exhibition game it cost a princely sum of $5.00 each. This stadium is much newer and modern and has individual seats so was much more comfortable. The game tonight was more lopsided with Brooks winning 2 – 0, but they also had twice as many shots on goal. It was 0 – 0 until late in the 3^rd period and then Brooks scored. With only 2 minutes to go Drumheller took their goalie off so they could play an extra player up front to try and even up the score, but this backfired and Brooks scored again as there was no goalie. Tonight’s game was much more spiteful with several fights and 2 of the Drumheller players getting ejected from the game! It was also not as noisy – the sound of the players crashing into the boards and the puck hitting the sticks and the boards was much less – maybe because the arena is more “upmarket”. Attendance was 1,274.

Hockey Stadium at Brooks

Day 42  -              9^th September 2018         Brooks to Calgary

Another lazy day today as we only have less than 200 km to do and not much to see in between so after breakfast, which included pancakes this time, we headed off at 9:45 with a temperature of 12 degrees. First stop was a rest area approx. 20 km up the road where we stopped for morning tea. The rest area is very flash with a building with indoor toilets and a relief map of Alberta. It is called “Trans Canada Highway Twinning Monument” rest area and was to celebrate the opening of the dual lane divided highway (ie twinning as in twins). Morning tea was terrible as the water from Brooks had a terrible taste.

Stopped at Strathmore for a lunch break and walked around Kinsmen Park and to the “Joyland” Theatre. 

The advantages of being young or old. The sign next to this one said not to eat the fish due to polluted water!!

Got back to the car and it was still only 12:00 so decided to head to Calgary for lunch. As we are not due to check in until 3:00 we went to “Fort Calgary” to have a look around and have lunch but they don’t have a café. The museum was interesting, but we were getting hungry so went and parked at the accommodation and had crispbreads with cheese and tomato for lunch in the car. 

We got into accommodation at about 2:45 and after unpacking had a cuppa and then headed back through a stack of roadworks to the supermarket to do the shopping. Back at the accommodation at 5:30 with a quiet night watching 2 episodes of “The Loch”. There are 6 episodes, so we need to watch them before we leave.

Day 43  -              10^th September 2018      Rest Day Calgary

Decided to have breakfast out today so headed to The Fine Diner café just 2 shops from our accommodation. Joy had blueberry pancakes and Les had eggs and bacon with breakfast potatoes. The bacon is candied bacon and is sweet like it has maple syrup on it. The breakfast potatoes are cubes of different types of potato and yams etc deep fried. Not exactly a healthy breakfast but very nice.

Yummy....

Joy tried to find a hairdresser to get a haircut but they are all closed (either for the day or permanently!).