2016 Holidays - Day 33 to 41

Day 33 – Broome – Rest Day

Had a bit of a lie in this morning. Today is a rest day so not going anywhere. Les did 2 loads of washing and caught up on renaming photos, blog, etc Joy did a fair bit of reading and also some photos and blog entries.

Hot and humid day so spent much of it inside with air con on.

Day 34 – Broome – Town

Headed off at 9:10 as we wanted to have a look around Broome and Chinatown before it got too hot. Well at 28 degrees we think we missed the cooler part of the day. Walked around Chinatown which is basically the Old Broome area. 

The mark from the last really high tide at Broome

Shouldn't it be alter not alarmed?

It is full of cafes, pearl shops and tourist shops. The main shopping part of Broome is a big shopping centre which is a few kilometres away. We had morning tea at one of the cafes called “Runway Café” which we will remember for 2 reasons. One – it is right under the flight path of the nearby airport, and two – it is the most expensive morning tea we have had. It is one of those places that do not have the prices on display. For 1 coffee, 1 milkshake, 1 slice of Hummingbird cake and 1 slice of Passionfruit Cheesecake it cost $28!! Not a bargain!! Got back to the car and the temperature was showing 40 degrees but by the time we had driven to the Museum the temperature had dropped to 33 degrees. Had a look around the Museum and then back to studio for lunch and an easy afternoon.

Les put the blog up and Joy did some reading. At 4:45 we headed to Cable Beach for the sunset. We were planning to buy Fish and Chips or similar and watch the sunset but as the sunset was 5:22 we decided that having tea before would be too early so we did the sunset first. Cable Beach was quite busy with people waiting for the sunset, but nowhere near as busy as Mindil Beach in Darwin. We didn’t do a camel ride, as both of us had already ridden a camel and didn’t need to do it again. There were 2 lots of camels (camel trains, I suppose) – red blankets and blue blankets – each with about 15 animals, so they must be fairly popular.

Sunset at Cable Beach

After sunset headed into town to buy the takeaway to only find the takeaway was closed!!! Not happy Jan!! So over the road to get Dominos Pizza for tea which we had at the studio accommodation.

Day 35 – Broome

Another hot day with 29 degrees at 9:30 am. Joy decided to head off to the Broome Markets while Les stayed home and did washing and started packing stuff (Joy can’t understand why Les would prefer to do household chores instead of checking out the markets). Joy said that the markets were “good but very busy”. Back at the studio Joy did some more cross-stitch and Les did more Trip Advisor reports.

At 3:30 we headed down to Gantheaume Point to try and find the dinosaur footprints that are only exposed at low tide. On the way to try to find the footprints we saw an osprey come back to the nest, bringing with it a fish for its tea – watched it for a little while. We don’t think anyone has been up to the top of the lighthouse tower for a while, because the osprey’s nest is on the top level of the lighthouse tower, and it is HUGE, and takes up the entire top level!

Osprey with fish

It was still 35 degrees and it got warm as we scrambled around the rocks looking for the footprints. Eventually someone else found the footprints and everyone congregated around that spot (which was well away from where we were!). We were a bit underwhelmed with them. The rocks and colours of the coastline were better than the footprints. 

Gantheaume Point

Gantheaume Point

Gantheaume Point

Dinosaur Footprint

After we struggled back to the car park we headed back to the studio to pack and have tea. Got to the studio at 4:55 and it was down to 30 degrees!

Day 36 – Broome to South Hedland

Time to move on today and when getting ready we had a power outage. After breakfast we started boiling water in a saucepan on the gas BBQ to fill the thermos for morning and afternoon tea. After the water boiled the power came back on so we were able to do the rest with the jug. Apparently power outages are fairly commonplace in Broome.

Setting off at 8:10 after spending 15 minutes talking to the woman who owns the B&B we stayed at. She does like a chat. The temperature was already 27 degrees and by the time we had morning tea at 10:00 it was 32 degrees. But today we were spending most of the day in the car as we have over 600 km to do. Basically we left Broome and just drove all day to get to South (Port) Hedland.

Camel by the highway

We stopped at Sandfire Roadhouse for lunch but as there were no picnic tables we had lunch in the car – but at least we did have shade to park in. Afternoon tea was at DeGrey River Rest Area and the clouds are building and turning quiet dark. 

Clouds at DeGrey River Rest Area

We only had a few light showers but when we arrived in South Hedland they had had a fair amount of rain as there were some large puddles around.

We’ve decided that NT wins on the rest area front, as they have more of them, and they have better facilities than WA. In the NT, we rarely had trouble finding a decent place to stop for our breaks, they were separate from the road train parking areas, most of them had covered tables, and many had toilets. In WA, if you are happy to share with the road trains, you can usually (but not always) find somewhere to stop, but they rarely have anything other than a garbage bin in the way of facilities. If you are extremely lucky, there might be somewhere to sit, and if you want a toilet – forget it!

Before we booked into the motel we checked out the lookout at the Salt Mound which is a huge pile of salt. So much salt that it is moved around with bulldozers and front end loaders.

Salt Mound, Port Hedland

We decided to head for the pub in South Hedland but did not like the look of the pub so tried the restaurant across the road. It turned out to be a nice meal with some of the best garlic bread we have ever had. Both had the entrée size Fish and Chips and it was more than enough with 2 pieces of fish and a good serve of chips.

Day 37 – South Hedland to Karijini Eco Lodge

Woke to clearing weather and there had been no more rain overnight but the weather forecast was for heavy rain in the area we were heading. Just out of town and the road signs said that the roads were “Open, proceed with caution” so “so far, so good”.

So Far, So Good!!!

But the weather is looking very dubious. We can see rain in the distance but then it would start to clear and then start raining again and so it went on and on. 

Weather turning for the worse

Spectacular Scenery

Stopped at Bea Bea Rest Area for morning tea and a quick walk down along the creek to see some gorges. 

Bea Bea Rest Area

By now we have entered some spectacular hills and ranges but we have also entered the rain area and it is getting heavy so we could not stop to take any photos – what photos we got were just from the inside of the car.

The rain had arrived.

We entered Karijini National Park with a sign warning of a rough road but we know that the rough road is about 30 km down the road. A few kms down the road and we come to a sign warning about “Flood Damage Ahead”. But we think the damage we have seen is from rain a few weeks ago and the rain has stopped so fingers crossed. 

Karijini National Park

When we got to the end of the sealed road we still had 3 kms to the lodge and a further 10 km to the Weano Gorge and Oxer Lookout where we are planning to do a few walks. Remember the sign warning about rough roads? Well they were right. The dirt (sorry mud) road was rough and corrugated with several large puddles of water. 

Road to Weano Lookout

On the way to the lookout we passed a car that had broken down but they had someone helping them so onward we went. Got to the car park to see a “Road Closed” sign. We stopped and use the toilet and while Joy was waiting for Les, the Park Ranger told us that we had to leave as the road, in fact the whole area of Weano Gorge and Oxer Lookout, was closed. So we headed back the 10 km of very wet gravel road. When we arrived at the lodge the car park was flooded so Joy checked that we could still check in and that we were not going to be evicted from the National Park but all was OK.

After booking in we headed to the Eco Tent that we are staying in. It has a floor of plastic “wood looking” planks and an Ensuite with no roof! Settled in and had lunch (at 2:40!). Spent the afternoon relaxing in the tent before having “lukewarm” showers. The hot water is solar and as they have had overcast and rainy days for a few days so there is not hot water. Also having an Ensuite with no roof might be great on a fine clear night but when it is raining and windy it is not very nice – depending on the direction of the rain, you could have a shower without even turning on the taps.

Road between Reception and our Eco-tent

View from Eco-tent Verandah

Enusite with no roof

Eco Tent (ensuite is white box at left hand side)

Having cleaned ourselves up a bit, we headed off to the restaurant for tea. The restaurant has a roof but about ½ of the sides are open to the elements and it is still raining and windy and cold. In fact, Les was the only one who did not have a jacket or jumper and it was only yesterday we were hot! The cooking area at the restaurant, though. is outside, just under some covers. The poor chef was working in what would be quite challenging conditions – water pouring down from the edges of the cover, and blowing in onto the cooking area.

When Les booked the restaurant he asked about a meal without chilli and they said they would arrange, but this was not done so he could not have the chicken meal he wanted. He had the beef tenderloins and veg and Joy had lamb with veg. The beef was nice (well done but still tender) but the lamb was sinewy and fatty. The veg were only warm (not hot) but considering the conditions they were cooked under probably not too bad.

Headed back to the tent for some reading and an early night.

Day 38 – Karijini Eco Lodge to Newman

It rained during the night and was windy so we did not sleep too well as the tent sides flap in the wind. Cold showers this morning – not a chance! The weather looks like it is clearing as we can see some blue sky but it is cool and windy. Went for walk to Joffre Lookout and Falls (the top) before breakfast. The lookout is above the Joffre Gorge and we can see that the water in the gorge is orange! We cannot get to the falls (bottom) as that track is closed due to flooding. We walked to near the top of the falls to get some photos before heading back to the tent.

Joffre Gorge - note the orange colour of the water

Joffre Falls

Finished packing and headed down for “complimentary” continental breakfast. At $315 a night for accommodation (plus credit card surcharge) it would want to be complimentary but it was also very basic. Three different cereals, toast, fruit, juice and instant coffee and tea. Filled the thermos from their hot water system as we had no jug in the tent.

Drove the 3 kms over the rough corrugated road before getting back onto the sealed road and headed to Dales Day Area to do some walks. We did the Gorge Rim walk and Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool. We managed these walks with only a short light shower of rain. So far today the temperature has not gotten over 18 degrees!!! What a difference a day or two makes!!

Circular Pools

Circular Pools Area

Dales Gorge

Dales Gorge

Dales Gorge

Dales Gorge

Fortescue Falls

Amazing Trees

Fern Pools

Fern Pools (note colour of water compared to Joffre Gorge only 30 km away)

Friends!!!!

Headed towards Newman (or actually 20 km south of Newman) and stopped at Mt Robinson Rest Area for lunch at 1:10 but as it was so cold and windy we had lunch in the car. By now the clouds were starting to clear.

Arrived at Capricornia Roadhouse 20 km south of Newman and checked in. We took the $65 per person “Crib” meal package. This turned out to be a bad idea. It covers set menu for dinner, breakfast and lunch. It turned out that the meals were not that expensive. We worked out that for the dinner and cooked breakfast it would have cost us about $70 in total, so cereal, juice and a salad and 2 bread rolls and 2 pieces of fruit cost us $65. The crib package does not include dinner drinks other than water and cordial, no dessert and only tea or instant coffee. We have learnt from this one!!!!  

Day 39 – Newman to Meekatharra

Woke to a beautiful sunny day but cold and windy. After breakfast (Les – bacon, poached eggs and hash browns with toast, Joy – pancakes with berries) we filled up with fuel and headed south. As we only had about 400 km we did not leave until after 9:00 am.

This stretch of road (as with yesterday) does not have many rest stops so morning tea was out the front of the Kimarina Roadhouse (another point – the roadhouses in WA rarely have any seating anywhere outside, actively discouraging people from stopping for breaks without buying something from the roadhouse). While having morning tea there were 2 large loads went through – we were glad we were not on the road when they went past.

Oversize Load

Lunch was at South Branch Gascoyne River Rest Area where the river is just a dry river bed – like quite a few rivers we’ve seen this holiday.

Arrived in Meekatharra and had afternoon tea at Peace Gorge near Meekatharra. It is not really a gorge but an area of rock formations. We stopped at the first picnic tables but there were 2 dogs lying nearby – we did not like the look of them so drove on to the next tables. Wandered around taking photos before heading to Meekatharra Lookout.

Peace Gorge, Meekatharra

Peace Gorge, Meekatharra

Back into town and booked into the motel which is part of the hotel (as in pub)!

Tea was at the hotel restaurant (would be better described as a dining room). Les had a seafood basket – very nice, great chips. Joy had hamburger and chips, burger not nice (bun not toasted, onion raw, beef pattie commercial and not properly cooked) but chips great. Beer $5.60 – bargain compared to recent beer prices

Day 40 – Meekatharra to Leonora

The cold weather continues but we expect this as we have moved south and there is also a cold front blowing icy wind from the Atlantic Ocean. We have a loooonnnnng day ahead of us at 630 km planned for today. We must be getting better at packing in the morning as today we got up at 6:30 and we were in the car and ready to head off at 7:20 after we washed ice off the back window of the car. Refuelled and decided to see if the servo had a treat for morning tea (as it is a Coles Express Servo) and Joy decided on a Blueberry Muffin for us to share and for just 50 cents extra she could have a coffee and Joy rarely passes up the chance of a coffee! At 7:30 we were on the road and it was only 7 degrees (4 days ago in Broome it was 27 degrees at this time of the morning!). Might be safe to pack away the shorts and sandals.

Our first stop for the day was Mount Magnet where we thought we should refuel (don’t ever let a chance go by) so threw $15 of fuel in, which filled the tank to the brim. We have now turned off the main highway and are heading east. It is still a main road as it has the lines down the middle and also the white lines on the edge of the road but traffic has become sparse. It took 16.5 km before we passed (not overtook) another vehicle which was a road train. Another 10 km before the next road train and another 5 km (or 31 km in total) before we passed a car and caravan!

Arrived in Sandstone (Joy loves that name for a town – not as much as Neville, Barry and Edith, which are in the Bathurst area, but then they are hard to beat) and checked that the Heritage Trail was still open after the recent rain and it was. Arrived at the main tourist attraction on the trail which is London Bridge. It is a rock formation shaped like a bridge – not a terribly original name for such a thing, and Joy wonders how many London Bridge rock formations exist, just in Australia. Took a few photos and did a bit of a walk and back on the road again.

London Bridge, Sandstone

London Bridge, Sandstone

Stopped at Peter Denny Rest Area for lunch at 1:05. It has warmed up to 13 degrees but the clouds are starting to build again.

Saw several Wedgetail Eagles as we head to Leinster which is a true mining town and also the “Home of the Wedgetail”.

Wedgetail Eagles

Had afternoon tea in a truck rest stop just out of town as there are no parks in town.

Arrived at Leonora at 4:50 and booked into the Hoover House B&B for the night. The house is built right next to the Sons of Gwalia open cut mine and when I say “right next to” I mean “right next to”. The open pit is about 2 feet the other side of the fence. The B&B is called Hoover House as it was built for the Mine Manager back in the early 1900’s, who was Herbert Hoover, later to become the 31^st President of the USA. We slept in the bedroom which was used by Herbert Hoover!

Sunset, Hoover House

Hoover House Bedroom

Mine from Hoover House Verandah

Hoover House

As the sun is setting we will not get a chance to check out the pit until the next day. After settling in we headed back to town for a pub meal. Had tea at the “White House Hotel” in the restaurant (we call it a restaurant as it had a menu delivered to our table unlike the previous night when it was just on the board in the bar).

The food was good but it took 45 minutes between the entrée (Deep Fried Camembert – a bit of a blast from the past) and the mains (Joy – Lasagne and Les – Penne Carbonara). Back to the B&B to find that there is another couple as guests in the room next to us. They were in the dining room and then went outside and she had one of those laughs that was loud and went straight through you.

Day 41 – Leonora to Kalgoorlie

We had to be up and finished breakfast by 9:00 and out of the room by 9:30 as the room we slept in is part of the Gwalia Museum. We had breakfast on the back verandah in the sun which was very nice looking over the ghost town of Gwalia and the town of Leonora.

Breakfast on the Verandah, Hoover House

After we packed the car we did a tour of the Museum and the House using an audio tour. We checked out the open pit mine from the lookouts. It had been quiet last night and we found out that the reason for this is that the mine is now underground and they bring ore from underground 24 hours a day and dump it at the tunnel entrance. During the day the trucks pick up the ore and take it to the crusher or dump it depending on how much gold it has. On average each truck has approx. $11,000 worth of gold ore in the load!!

Hoover House and Sons of Gwalia Mine

Sons of Gwalia Mine

Under Ground Truck

Above Ground Truck

Part of the audio tour was the “winding room” which is the room where the winder was that pulled the carriages of ore out of the mine via the Headframe (the tall thing above the mines). No one was allowed to talk to the winding operator when he was working as he needed to concentrate on the bells that were signals for if the miners were ready for the carriage of ore to be hauled up, etc. Apparently one day the winding operator was a bit under the weather from the night before and made a mistake with the signals and “broke a person in half the wrong way”. We are curious what is the right way to break a person in half!!! Afterwards we had a coffee/milkshake at the museum.

Gwalia Ghost Town

Gwalia Ghost Town

Gwalia Ghost Town

Left to head into Leonora at 11:40 with a temperature of 15 degrees and beautiful sunny day. Refuelled and checked out if we could get fresh bread rolls but none to be found so Cruskits for lunch again today – both of us are a bit over Cruskits, but suspect we may be eating them again as we cross the Nullarbor – not many bakeries there. Had lunch at Menzies. From Menzies the roads we will travel are the same roads that we did in our trip to WA in 2014 so we should remember the scenery.

Arrived in Kalgoorlie at 3:00 pm and booked in to the cabin. Next job was shopping and we HATE the shopping centre car park with a passion. We remembered it from last time – chaos, with cars going everywhere, and nobody giving two hoots about anyone else. By the time we had done the shopping and got back to the cabin it was just after 5:00 so was time for pre-dinner nibbles of brie and biscuits.