2016 Holidays - Day 27 to 32

Day 27 – Darwin to Pine Creek via Litchfield National Park

Another warm morning with the temperature at 26 degrees at 7:30 when we left Darwin. Headed south out of town and stopped at Coolalinga for bread rolls, morning tea treats and fuel. Back on the road again and headed south before turning off towards Litchfield National Park. Passed through Batchelor before arriving at the Magnetic Termite Mounds in Litchfield. These termite mounds are roughly flat facing North/South. They do this so that in summer the sun goes straight over the nest and the least amount of surface is exposed to the sun, smart cookies!!!

Magnetic Termite Mounds (Credit: Les)

Morning tea stop was at Florence Falls car-park before heading to the falls themselves. We walked down the stairs to the base of the falls – which are spectacular – where there were quite a few people (about 20) swimming. We had an option to return up the stairs (all 160 steps) or back via the creek with gentle uphill. 

Florence Falls, Litchfield National Park (Credit:Joy) 

Stairs down to base of Florence Falls (Credit: Les)

Les was in his element even without a tripod. Balanced camera on a rock, (Credit: Les)

We took the gentle uphill walk however the last 1/3^rd was in sunshine and by now it was 31 degrees. Next stop was to be Tolmer Falls but we missed the turnoff so continued to Wangi Falls. These are another spectacular set of falls but this time you start at the base of the falls. It is also a very popular swimming spot so you cannot get a photo of the falls with the pool at the base without people in it! 

Wangi Falls (Credit: Joy)

The walk goes up one side of the falls and back down the other side, and it is rather strenuous as it is now 34 degrees.  After the walk we had lunch near the base of the falls. We also saw a sign stating that Tolmer Falls Lookout was closed and part of the walk was closed so we gave it a miss and headed back to the Stuart Highway. 

Palms in Litchfield National Park (Credit: Les)

By the time we got to Adelaide River it was 38 degrees! We went over “134km bridge” and after 2 km we went over another bridge and guess what it was called …… “136 km bridge”!!!

Arrived at Pine Creek at 4:15 and after unpacking we went to the shop for an ice cream to find they sold “Homemade Ice-cream” in small Chinese plastic containers for $5 each. Bargain!! Joy had “Crunchie Ice Cream” and Les had “Peanut Butter Ice Cream”. Very Nice!!! After that we had a quick swim in the hotel pool, but the water was a bit cold as it is under shade sails and gets very little sun.

Day 28 – Pine Creek to Kununurra

The fine hot weather continues!!! On the road at 7:55 heading south to Katherine where we refuelled and bought some bread rolls and a custard & apple danish. The danish cost $6 and did us for 3 morning or afternoon teas. Another bargain! We are now heading west towards WA and in the 500 odd km from Katherine to Kununurra there are only 2 roadhouses or minor settlements. About 80 km west of Katherine we passed a cyclist heading west. Some people have no sense!!!

Stopped at Joes Creek Rest Area for a photo opportunity. The rest area is surrounded by high hills with cliffs along the top. Well worth the 2 km detour even if the road was very rough. 

Road into Joes Creek Rest Area (Credit: Les)

Joes Creek Rest Area (Credit: Joy)

Turkey Bush, Joes Creek Rest Area (Credit: Les)

Temperature has hit 35 degrees but is a dry heat which we can handle better – but the sun still has a sting to it.

Stopped at Timber Creek for lunch in the shade. We are seeing lots of Boab trees. They are very varied in height, width, and leaves (some bare, some with a few leaves and some covered). We often see 2 growing together and the branches are entwined so it looks like they are hugging each other. So cute!!

Hugging Boab Trees (Credit: Joy)

Stopped at Escarpment Lookout where we were originally planning to have lunch but glad we did not as there were 5 picnic tables and all in the sun. No shade at all. 

Escarpment Lookout Picnic Area, 36 degrees and no shade! (Credit: Les)

Looks down to the river and Bradshaws Bridge which was the next stop. The bridge is owned by the Australian Defence Force and gives them access to Defence Land and so we could not drive over it.

So back on the road again and after hitting a high of 39 degrees at 3:10 we hit the NT/WA border at 4:45 and changed the watches back to 3:15. Our car was also inspected by the Border Staff for fruit, honey, seeds, etc

Arrived at Kununurra at 3:45 and booked into the motel and unpacked. Then went to Mirima National Park which is on the edge of Kununurra where we did the “Plant Trail” and the “Derdbe-gerring Banan Trail” which climbs to points overlooking Kununurra and intricate rock formations. Magnificent rock formations and as the sun set the red in the rocks really showed out. 

Derdbe-gerring Banan Trail (Credit: Joy)

Mirima National Park (Credit: Joy)

Mirima National Park (Credit: Joy)

Mirima National Park (Credit: Les)

Back to the shopping centre to do some shopping as we could not bring fruit or veg etc from NT. Joy was accosted by one of the local aborigines (he actually came from Wyndham not Kununurra) and he was selling a carved Boab Nut. He wanted $30 for it so he could buy food (Spaghetti, bread, etc) but Joy talked him down to $20!! Dinner in the motel restaurant.

Day 29 – Kununurra to Warmun

A reasonably late start today at 8:30 but weather still fine and warm with 27 degrees at 8:30. First stop today was at Ivanhoe Crossing. Les knew of this crossing and has always wanted to visit it. It is a curved concrete causeway and is sometimes frequented by crocodiles. The information we had was that the crossing had been closed due to high water but it was in fact open but not for a Mazda 3 (well not ours!!).

Ivanhoe Crossing (Credit: Les)

Back to town to refuel and headed to the Zebra Rock Gallery. There are only 2 places in the world that have zebra rock and both are near Kununurra. No one knows how it forms as it is not different layers of rock. It is used in jewellery and statues, etc. Les has a trinket that his parents bought him about 30 years ago. Had morning tea here with homemade Ginger Nuts that cost 50 cents each. Yes, more bargains! They also had Carved Boab nuts which were selling for $60 up!! Joy’s purchase the day before was another bargain!!

Morning Tea at Zebra Rock Gallery (Credit: Les)

Headed north towards Wyndham and stopped at “The Grotto”. This is a waterhole in a gorge and is 130 steps down (and the same back up!). Even in 37 degree heat the walk was worth it and while we were sweaty, the stairs were not that bad.

Road to Wyndham (Credit: Joy)

Stairs into The Grotto (Credit: Les)

The Grotto (Credit: Joy)

Double Barred Finch, The Grotto (Credit: Joy)

The Grotto Pool Reflection (Credit: Les)

On to Wyndham which does not have much to offer but did visit the “Largest Boab in Captivity” in the local caravan park. 

Largest Boab in Captivity with Joy giving it a hug (Credit: Les)

Then on to Five Rivers Lookout (another place Les had been and remembers well) where we had lunch.

Five Rivers Lookout. Which is the odd car? (Credit: Joy)

Five Rivers Lookout (Credit: Les)

Headed back to the main highway and passed lots of amazing scenery with great rock formations along the highway. The scenery in the area is never boring and also nothing like we thought it would be.

Road to Warmun (Credit: Les)

Road to Warmun (Credit: Les)

Arrived at Warmun at 4:35 and still 35 degrees. Early night as we have an early start tomorrow.

Day 30 – Warmun to Bungle Bungle Station Stay

We had the alarm set for 5:00 am as we had a 6:00 am start – we had 55 km to do today!! Arrived at Bungle Bungle Station Stay at 6:40 with temperature 24 degrees. We then boarded our Coach/Bus for a day trip to the Bungle Bungle National Park, departing just after 7am.

Coach/Bus/Truck for Bungle Bungles Trip (Credit: Joy)

It took 1 ¾ hours to travel the 55 km from the Station Stay to the park visitor centre. The road is rough and corrugated. After a toilet break at the visitor centre we headed to Picaninny Car park for morning tea – they provided tea, coffee, biscuits and cake, but we just had a few biscuits as we wanted to do as many walks as we could. Did 3 walks here, Piccaninny Lookout, 

Bungle Bungles National Park (Credit: Les)

Bungle Bungles National Park (Credit: Les)

Bungle Bungles National Park (Credit: Joy)

Picanniny Lookout (Credit: Joy)

Cathedral Gorge 

Amazing what will grow and where. Cathedral Gorge (Credit: Les)

Cathedral Gorge. Note people at the base. (Credit: Les)

and Dome Loop. Absolutely spectacular. Very hard to describe this place so took lots of photos.

Back to the car park for lunch of ham and salad wraps and fruit juice. 

Lunch Break (Credit: Les)

They also did a group photo which was posted on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/BungleBungleCaravanPark/photos/a.153406754831492.1073741825.117255371779964/556071984564965/?type=3&theater).

Next was a 1 hour trip to the Echidna Car Park and a walk up Echidna Chasm. We have walked a few chasms before but this one was incredible. After following a dry (and very rocky) creek bed 

Echinda Chasm creek bed (Credit: Joy)

you enter a chasm that gets narrower and narrower until you can almost touch both sides at once.  You come to the “Waiting room” which looks like the end but hidden behind the corner the chasm continues and then there are fallen boulders and it looks like a dead end but no, you work your way past these boulders and keep going. The chasm gets down to only a few feet wide at spots until you come to a dead end. So next you head back the way you came. 

Echinda Chasm (Credit: Les)

Waiting Room, Echinda Chasm. The Chasm continues by going to the left behind the round boulder. (Credit: Les)

And then you get fallen boulders but work your way between them. (Credit: Les)

Until you come to the end!! (Credit: Les)

Passed several other bus groups and many did not look like they were enjoying themselves, struggling with the rocky creek bed!!

Les managed to get to ride back to the Station Stay in the front seat of the bus (like a modified truck). One of the rear view mirrors fell off on the way home.

Back at the Station Stay and we booked into our Ensuite Tent just as it started to rain lightly.

Creek Crossing on why out of Bungle Bungles (Credit: Les)

Road out of Bungle Bungles (Credit: Les)

Preparing to relax at Bungle Bungle Station Stay (Credit: Les)

Dinner was part of the tour so headed to the dining area under a large circus like tent roof. Soup and damper (very salty soup) followed by chicken curry (not very spicy) with rice. Early to bed due to early start and long day. Light rain overnight.

Day 31 Bungle Bungle Station Stay to Fitzroy Crossing

Maybe we haven’t adjusted to WA time yet, but we were up early and ready to go before 7:30am, even though we didn’t need to. The rain overnight meant the ground was a bit wet, but there hadn’t been enough to really cause any problems (the road from the Station Stay to the highway is dirt, and can close if it rains). What the rain did do was mean it was humid, and with it being 25C at 7:30am, that’s not pleasant.

Ensuite Tent at Bungle Bungle Station Stay (Credit: Les)

Ensuite Tent at Bungle Bungle Station Stay. Yes it was a big step that last one!! (Credit: Les)

We stopped at Halls Creek to refuel and get ice to put in the esky. There was no power in the tent we stayed in last night, so there was no fridge, and so we had to get something to keep the things in the esky cold. We are also staying in a tent tonight, a permanent one, just like last night’s effectively was, and whilst they say it is a luxury tent, we can’t be sure that one of those luxuries is power!

We also got Joy a coffee, as she had a headache – we think it might be because yesterday she only had one coffee (and that was at 5:45am!) and no chocolate!!! Will have to keep that in mind in the future.

Old Halls Creek is about 14km east of Halls Creek. Halls Creek was moved to its current location back in the 1950s, but the flash tourist brochure doesn’t tell why but probably because of where the highway went. Whatever the reason was, the new Halls Creek now has quite a reputation for being a place you don’t want to stop for long in – really only long enough to go to Old Halls Creek. There isn’t a lot there, just the ruins of the old town. Les had been there many years ago, and he could walk around in the old ruins – now they are fenced off and covered by a roof, in an attempt to preserve them a bit. Rove McManus’ Great Grandfather was acting warder in Halls Creek back in the early 1900’s.

There was a large flock of red-tailed black cockatoos in the trees around Old Halls Creek – more than either of us had seen before. They were noisy and acting like crazy things, but of course, like all birds, don’t co-operate to let you get a decent photo!

We headed off to Caroline Pool, which is on the road back to Halls Creek. It’s a waterhole in the creek, and looks quite pleasant. There were a couple of cars parked in the creek bed, looking quite dusty, so they may have come all the way along the dirt road from the east.

Caroline Pool (Credit: Les)

Next stop on the way back to Halls Creek was China Wall, which is a rock formation that looks for all the world like it has been constructed as a wall.

China Wall (Credit: Joy)

Our plan was to have morning tea at Mary Pool Rest Area. We’d been told by a couple of people at tea last night that it is a lovely rest area, on the river, with plenty of shade, and is quite popular. We got there at about midday, (yes, morning tea was late today), and it certainly is a lovely rest area, but popular is an understatement – already there were at least 50 caravans/campers all set up to stay. They are only supposed to stay for one night, but it certainly looks like not everyone abides by that rule. Usually the people who stop overnight in these areas start setting up around 2:30pm or 3:00pm, but I think here, if you left it that late, you would be pushing it to find a space!

Stopped for a quick lunch break at Ngumban Cliffs – good view, but not much shade, except for the cover over the picnic tables.

The Termites in Western Australia are obese compared to those in Northern Territory! (credit: Les)

Ngumban Cliffs (Credit: Les)

Ngumban Cliffs (Credit: Les)

Got to Geikie Gorge about 3:30pm, in time to buy tickets for the Gorge cruise that is run by the Parks and Wildlife people. The cruise left a bit after 4pm, and went for about an hour. We cruised up the river (Fitzroy River), checking out the cliffs (quite spectacular, particularly in the late afternoon light), the formations carved into the cliffs by the river, and the wildlife (crocodiles – but only little freshies (fresh water crocodiles), wallabies, and birds).

Geikie Gorge (Credit: Joy)

Geikie Gorge (Credit: Les)

Freshwater Crocodile, Geikie Gorge (Credit: Les)

Geikie Gorge (Credit: Les)

On way up stream, Geikie Gorge (Credit: Les)

On way downstream 1 1/2 hours later, Geikie Gorge (Credit: Les)

Back to the car by 5:15pm, then did the drive back to Fitzroy Crossing and our accommodation. There were roadworks in progress when we went to the Gorge, but luckily they were finished for the day when we went back – drove very carefully though, as the local wildlife doesn’t have any road sense.

Checked in to Fitzroy Crossing Lodge, and managed to find our Ensuite tent in the dark, and yes! We have power!!! And that means air con, as it was still 29C at 6pm.

Dinner in the Lounge Bar – Les had chicken parma, Joy had beef pie.

Day 32 – Fitzroy Crossing to Broome

Yep, we definitely haven’t adjusted to WA time, because again we were ready to go early – on the road before 7:45am. But then maybe it could be because it was already 27C by then? We had breakfast on the verandah of the tent, looking at the bush, watching the kites (of the bird kind) flying around, really close to where we were – in fact at one stage we thought one was going to fly straight at us!

Green Tree Frog in Cabin, Fitzroy Crossing (Credit: Les)

What to do if you have a Green Tree Frog in Cabin, Fitzroy Crossing. (we did Option 3) (Credit: Les)

Fitzroy Crossing Accommodation (Credit: Les)

On the road again, heading west, basically. Our first stop was at the Boab Tree Rest Area, for morning tea. The rest areas all have names, mostly because of where they are, like Mary Pool Rest Area. Could be our morning tea stop was named because of the huge boab tree in the middle of it? 

Large Boab Tree (Credit: Joy)

31C by now – can’t help but think of those poor souls back in Bathurst on this first official day of winter.

Instead of driving direct to Broome, we turned off for a side-trip to Derby. It’s sad to say, but Derby doesn’t really have a lot to do or see. Its main claim to fame is the enormous tides – can be up to 11.8 metres difference between low and high tides. Unfortunately, we weren’t there at a time to really see this, as we weren’t there at either high or low tide, but some time in between. We still checked out the wharf, though, and you could see that the tidal flow was quite fast, when you looked at the movement of the water against the wharf pylons.

Derby is also known for the Boab Prison Tree, which was used in the 1890s as a prison for Indigenous Australians on their way to Derby for sentencing. The prisoners were chained, and it really is a sad tale in Australia’s history. Nearby to the tree is the really, really long water trough, that apparently could mean 500 head of cattle could drink from it at any one time.

Now it was straight on to Broome – our home for 4 nights, including a rest day tomorrow. After checking in to our accommodation, we went grocery shopping, then settled in for the night. Still 29C at 5:30pm.

Addition to roadkill list today – a HUGE snake. There were 2 kites feeding off it, so we slowed down to give them time to fly off so we wouldn’t hit them and add them to the roadkill list.