2016 Holiday - Day 6 to 12

Day 6 – Coober Pedy, The Breakaways

We had nothing specific planned for the morning so didn’t set the alarm – still woke up around 7am though. Had breakfast at the outdoor table as it was quite pleasant. Forecast said temperature of mid 20s, and the chance of rain in the afternoon.

Desert Apartments, Coober Pedy – Living Underground

Desert Apartments, Coober Pedy – Living Underground

We decided to go for a walk to the Old Timers Mine and Museum, since the people at the motel reception said our tour in the afternoon wouldn’t include it. We spent about an hour there, watching a demonstration of a blower, which is how miners now get the rocks and dirt up from the mine (it’s like a huge vacuum cleaner, so shouldn’t be called a blower, but rather a sucker), and walking through the old mine. 

Blower at Old Timers Mine

We had to wear hard-hats in the mine as the tunnels are quite low – not a real problem for Joy, but Les was glad he was wearing the protection. There are quite a few interpretive signs through the mine, showing how they would have mined in the not-too-distant past.

Coober Pedy

Back to the motel for lunch, then to wait to be picked up for our afternoon tour. We were booked in with Arid Areas Tours, and we were the only ones, so the tour was completely personalised for us. Mind you, the vehicle would only comfortably take 4 on the tour (in addition to the tour guide), so it would still have been pretty personal even if we did have others.

Wayne (the guy who owns and runs the tour) took us for a trip around Coober Pedy, which would have included the Old Timers Mine, but didn’t because we had already done it. We went to 2 underground churches (one Anglican, one Serbian Orthodox), an underground home (Faye’s) which was built by hand by 3 women back in the 1960s, around past the Aboriginal area, where they have all their health care buildings, etc, past a couple of the murals, then out to Crocodile Harry’s. Faye’s home showed how women built homes – very homely – whilst Crocodile Harry’s showed how an alternative-type man built a home – like a party house, with naked women everywhere.

We then went out to the opal fields, and saw a HUGE hole in the ground (not as huge as the Super Pit in Kalgoorlie, but still it was pretty big). It’s being worked by Wayne and his brother, but not by hand.

Opal Mines

After that, it was out to the Breakaways, which are absolutely beautiful. Les hadn’t been there on his previous trips, but he said even if he had, he still would have been impressed. We didn’t stay for sunset (which would have been amazing, with the colour on the formations) because the weather, as predicted, had closed in, so cloud meant no colour in the sunset.

Breakaways, Coober Pedy

Breakaways, Coober Pedy

Breakaways, Coober Pedy

This meant that when we went back to Coober Pedy via the Dog Fence we were able to take a photo of it because there was still enough light.

Dog Fence, Coober Pedy

Didn’t get back to the motel until around 6:30pm, so in total our tour was 5hrs.

Day 7 – Coober Pedy to Erldunda

Woke to rain in Coober Pedy. The problem with living underground is you cannot hear it raining on the roof (partly because above the bed the roof is about 20 feet thick and solid rock!). After having breakfast and packing the car in the drizzly rain we headed off at 8:15. We tried to buy bread rolls from the bakery but it was still closed. Refuelled with Premium as they only have Unleaded 91 and Premium (we normally use 95). As we headed north the rain continued and we could see by the puddles along the road that a reasonable amount of rain had fallen. 

Stopped at Cadney Roadhouse for morning tea and there was no picnic area, so took advantage of their Coffee (or Milo) and cake for $6. Coffee was only instant and the cake was probably commercial and thawed but still very nice.

By now the rain was fairly consistent and we were going to struggle to find a nice place for lunch. Stopped at the Marryat River Rest Area and had Cuppa-Soup and Cruskit biscuits under the shelter shed. No sides to the shed and the wind is icy cold so as soon as we finished lunch we were back in the car. Temperature according to the car 16 degrees!!

Stopped for the required photos at the SA/NT Border before continuing to Erldunda for the night. 

Lots of puddles of water lying around. Arrived at 2:55 and after unpacking had a cuppa and caught up on diary, blog, photos and Trip Advisor reviews.

Decided to have takeaway from the roadhouse rather than eating in the dining room. Joy had hamburger and muffin and Les had Bacon & Egg roll and chips. Food was very average. The motel is built on piers and the floorboards are very squeaky. We can hear the people on both sides when they walk around and imagine they can hear us as well.

Fell asleep to the sound of the rain.

Day 8 – Eldunda to Yulara

Woke this morning to rain. They had rain nearly all night. The puddle outside the window was much bigger than the night before. Was the first time we needed the umbrella to pack the car and glad we had it! Joy asked the fellow at the service station how much rain they had had and he said he did not know the actual recording but “lots”. 

Erldunda Motel – Sign of things to come!!

As we headed west towards Yulara the rain eased and then stopped but the puddles on the road got bigger. Several spots had water flowing across the road but only an inch or so deep until…… BIG puddle the whole width of the road and much of the paddocks on each side and about 500 metres long. But how deep and how much flow did it have? The VW Golf in front of us had turned around and gone back. We had seen a few cars but did not know if they had come from Yulara or had come from Erlunda and turned back. We had just decided to walk the water to see how deep/fast flowing it was when 3 4WDs arrived. They went through and we judged we could make it as well. As you might guess we did make it but it got the pulse up. The water was up to 20 cm deep. Slow and steady was the trick. 

Things that came!!! Floodwater on way to Yulara

We continued to go through small rivers of water but about 20 km further we came to another longish section (200 metres). At the first big crossing I asked a fellow in a small car about the road from Yulara and he told us about this one but said we should have no problems. The first part of this section of water was easy but the last 20/30 metres was a bit deeper and had a bit more flow but we made it. After this the number and size of the puddles got less and less. (We found out later that they had had about 3 inches of rain in 3 days and the road had been closed the day before).

By the time we stopped for morning tea at 10:40 the clouds were breaking up and there was blue sky about. Stopped at Mt Connor Lookout and saw Mt Connor (naturally) but also the lake behind the lookout with water in it. 

Mt Connor lookout

Mt Connor lookout

Joy was the first to spot Uluru! You can see it from about 30 km away (the way the crow flies). 

30km east of Uluru

Arrived at Yulara at 1:00 but could not check in until 3:00 so had picnic lunch at the picnic area at the Cultural Centre at Uluru. Drove around Uluru and did the Kuniya Walk which takes you to one of 2 waterholes at the base of Uluru. 

Rest Seat, Uluru

Kaniya Walk, Uluru – last of rain running off Uluru

Can you pick the odd one out??

There was still some water flowing off the rock but much less than the previous day (saw an article on the ABC news about it). Got back to the campground at 3:30 and booked into the cabin.

Off to the only supermarket for groceries. The prices are higher than in Bathurst which we expected but Les baulked at paying $4.40 for a bottle of soda water (Coke was on special at $2 something for 1.25 litres).

Drove to Sunset Strip to watch the sun set on Uluru. Sunset was 6:13 and we arrived at 5:15 to find the car park was almost full. Stood for just over an hour watching an amazing sunset as the few clouds that remained threw some great shadows on Uluru.

No not a photo card!! Some of the shots of sunset

The lady next to us told us that the road to Kings Canyon was closed. We only hope it will be open in the next day or so!!

Day 9 – Yulara – Uluru & Kata Tjuta

Woke to a beautiful sunny day but only about 12 degrees. Left at 9:00 and headed to Uluru to do the “Base Walk”. Started the walk at about 9:45. The start of the walk is also where the “climb” starts. Even though people are asked to respect the Indigenous Culture (owners of the land here) there are still people climbing Uluru although we understand that only 10% to 20% of visitors now climb Uluru. The Base Walk is flat all the way but is 10.6 km and we had quite a few puddles and muddy sections. Took us about 3 ½ hours to do the walk. I mentioned earlier about people still climbing which we think is disrespectful to the Aboriginals but we saw and heard a woman (American?) blowing a ram’s horn or similar at one of the sacred sites which we thought was the height of disrespect!!

Base Walk, Uluru

Base Walk, Uluru

Base Walk, Uluru

Flowers at Uluru

The Brain, Uluru

Base Walk, Uluru

Had lunch at the Cultural Centre again before driving to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas). 

Have we mentioned the flies???

Stopped at the viewing platform along the way and then did a 2.4 km return walk along Walpa Gorge. Les had done this about 30 years ago. Kata Tjuta is completely different to Uluru in shape, size and type of rock.

Walpa Gorge, Kata Tjuta

Walpa Gorge, Kata Tjuta

Walpa Gorge, Kata Tjuta

Had afternoon tea in the car as the flies are really bad. Watched sunset at the Kata Tjuta sunset strip. AAT Kings had a coach trip doing the sun set tour and they had nibbles and drinks while watching sunset. There were also others who brought lounge chairs to sit in for sunset! 

Sunset, Kata Tjuta

Left just after sunset and drove the 50 or so kilometres back to Yulara with a trail of cars behind us. Refuelled with Premium fuel 184.3 per litre. They also padlock the premium bowsers but not the others! Not sure why.

Day 10 – Yulara to Kings Canyon

Woke to another beautiful day with hardly any clouds. 11 degrees this morning. Finished packing the car and left at 8:40. We had checked the NT Government web site last night and no mention of the Kings Canyon Road being closed so fingers crossed.  Turned onto the Kings Canyon Road and we could see the spots where the road would have had water over it in the last few days. Morning tea at Salt Creek Rest Area with the temperature up to 16 degrees.

Road to Kings Canyon

Road to Kings Canyon

Arrived at Kathleen Springs at 12:30 where we had lunch and did the 2.4 km return walk to the Springs. Very nice scenic walk and as it is wheelchair friendly was an easy walk other than dodging some puddles on the track. There was a waterfall flowing into the pool at the springs – we are not sure if this is normal or not, as the sign does not say. 

Kathleen Springs, Can you pick the Dog's Head? 

Kathleen Springs 

Kathleen Springs 

Back to the car at 2:15 and on to Kings Canyon Resort to check in. Had afternoon tea at 3:00 and was visited by a dingo (very mangy). Quick walk to the sunset area to check it out and back to room to work on photos from last few days (renaming and stitching panorama shots together).

At 5:45 headed to the sunset viewing which was not a good as last 2 day’s sunsets we had seen but still nice scenery.

Sunset, Kings Canyon the tough way!!

Sunset, Kings Canyon Resort

Tea was at the Outback BBQ and Grill as the Bistro was closed. Had to wait 45 minutes for our meals as they are so busy. Les had Barramundi and Salad and Joy had Pumpkin and Chick Pea Burger. They provide the bun and patty and you select your own salad to put on it. The fish was nice but potato that came with it was lukewarm. Joy’s patty was almost cold. There was a Country singer playing and singing which we worked out was to keep you entertained whilst waiting for your meals!!

Day 11 – Kings Canyon

Well the weather has now decided to be kind to us. We have now had 2 ½ days of nice weather and today is the same. Today is going to be a big day walking-wise so we headed off at 8:40 to Kings Canyon which is about 10 km from the resort.

Arrived at about the same time as a coach from Newcastle. After getting ready with sunscreen, etc headed up the Kings Creek Walk which takes you along the creek in the canyon itself. Normally the creek is either dry or very close but today there is some water and parts of the track are actually underwater but easy to deviate around. Managed to pass the oldies from the coach fairly quickly. Got to the lookout at the end of the walk and we cannot access it as a boulder took it out a few weeks earlier – just hope no one was on it at the time. 

Kings Creek Walk, Kings Canyon

Kings Creek Walk, Kings Canyon

Kings Creek Walk, Kings Canyon

Kings Creek Walk, Kings Canyon. Hope n one was on it when this happened.

Back along the creek to the beginning of the Rim Walk. The first ½ km or so is straight up the ridge line using steps that have been made from the rocks and cement. Not how Les remembers it from 30 odd years ago. Once you have reached the top of the ridge line the walking becomes much easier although it is still undulating. The scenery is spectacular. Lots of rock formations, domes and of course the Canyon itself. There are several lookouts and many photos have been taken. 

Rim Walk climb, Kings Canyon

Rim Walk climb, Kings Canyon

Rim Walk climb, Kings Canyon

Rim Walk, Kings Canyon

Rim Walk, Kings Canyon

We took the side track to Cotterills Lookout. To get to the lookout you have to cross a steel bridge that goes over a chasm. When Les was here previously it was a wooden bridge made of branches and wire! 

Rim Walk, Kings Canyon

Rim Walk, Kings Canyon

Rim Walk, Kings Canyon

Joy getting her exercises done at Rim Walk , Kings Canyon

After walking along the northern rim you drop down a series of staircases to the top section of the creek and a side track to “Garden of Eden”. This is a water hole at the top of the canyon however you can no longer get to the spot that gives the view down both sides of the Canyon. Blocked by water and also signs saying the area is closed. 

Kings Canyon

Garden of Eden

Garden of Eden

Up another set of stair cases to the southern rim for more photos. From here you can see how well the creek is flowing – there was even a waterfall! 

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon - Joy's hat was like this for the last hour of the walk!!

The walk down the Southern Rim is much easier and gentler than the walk up the northern rim. Made it back to the car at 1:05 so it took us 4 hrs 10 minutes (they suggest between 3:45 and 4:45 so we are average!!)

Back to the cabin at the resort for lunch, showers and a relaxing afternoon.

Kings Creek 4 days after it was closed due to flooding

Visitor at Kings Canyon Resort (one of many)

Outback BBQ for tea again tonight (only other option would have been get dressed up and go to the posh dining room at the expensive part of the resort or the “pour boiling water on noodles” option. But we did go for tea at about 5:45 and were the 2^nd guests so at least it should be quick and hot tonight. We both had the Ground Wagyu Beef Burger. Yes, it was quick and yes it was hot (except the potatoes – lukewarm) but at $28 each not cheap!

Day 12 – Kings Canyon to Alice Springs

Again we woke to a beautiful sunny day – well it would have been if the sun was up!! As we had a fairly big day we set the phone alarm for 6:30 and the sun does not rise until 7:15 but it was still light. Didn’t have a really good night sleep last night as a group of 5 or so backpackers at the end of the row of cabins were up talking and laughing (and drinking and smoking) until about 1:00 am!! Another morning starting at 11 degrees so the weather is now what we had been expecting, cool nights and mild days albeit a bit windy. After packing we threw a bit of fuel in the car. At 192 cents per litre the most expensive so far (Yulara was 184 cents per litre) but we need some to get back to Erldunda where we paid 174 cents a few days earlier. Passed several horses on the road out which was a surprise. 

We have also noticed the road kill is MUCH less compared to the section from Port Augusta to Coober Pedy. When we arrived at Erldunda we found we were not the only ones wanting to refuel. Took about 20 minutes from when we arrived until we got the fuel.

Erldunda Roadhouse – 20 minutes to refuel!!

Headed north along the Stuart Highway and heading the other direction were 5 microlight helicopters. What a way to see the country! Turned off towards Henbury Meteorite Craters. Les had been here before and thought that it was not as spectacular as Uluru/Kata Tjuta or Kings Canyon, and he was right. But it was still interesting with all 3 craters having some water in them. The road to the craters was dirt. There were a few muddy sections but we made it OK and only scraped once or twice on the ridges made by 4WDs in the drying mud. Quick walk around the craters after lunch and then on the road again. 

Henbury Meteorite Craters

Henbury Meteorite Craters

Henbury Meteorite Craters

Crossed a major bridge over the Finke River. This river is normally dry but today it has a very good flow both in amount and speed of water. We could also see how much higher it had been in the last few days. 

Finke River – normally dry!!

Onwards and arrived at Alice Springs at about 4:00. We saw our first traffic lights since Port Augusta on day 5! Had cheese and biscuits out the back looking at the hills behind the cottage. Looks like it will be a good spot to have pre-dinner nibbles for the next few days!!