Day 26 Yungaburra to Cobbold Gorge 321 km
Another fine day in Paradise (what the rest of Australia calls Queensland). Up at 7:00 this morning and on the road at 7:55 and headed into Atherton to buy some bread rolls and bread for lunches for the next few days. Also refuelled.
Headed out of town on the same road we took a few days ago when we did the waterfall circuit but this time kept going south. Passed the edge of Ravenshoe which claims to be the highest town in Queensland, however we had passed a sign earlier which claimed to be the highest town on the highest road in Queensland, I suppose it depends on what you classify as a town.
We made a brief stop at the Wind Farm for a photo and then continued on to Millstream Falls where we went for a walk of 680m return to view Millstream Falls. When they are in flood they are claimed to be the widest falls in Australia. They make a lot of claims up here in QLD. Anyway Joy particularly like the part of the falls that only had a light amount of water, Les liked it all!! There were also several ducks who were feeding just near the top of the falls.
Left at 9:40 and stopped at Mt Garnet for morning tea before moving on to Forty Mile Scrub National Park. We did a short 300m walk through a ‘Dry Rainforest’ which was very interesting. There are vines like a ‘wet rainforest’ but also things like Bottle trees.
Lunch was at Mt Surprise where we also put the car through an automatic car wash which is used to wash grass seeds, etc. off vehicles. Hope to get a photo tomorrow. Left Mt Surprise at 12:55 (the Savannahlander train was due in this afternoon but not until 2:15 so we did not wait which was a good choice).
The road we are travelling on is Highway 1 (our main national highway) but you would not know it by some of the road which is 1 lane stuff. By this I mean 1 lane for both directions and not 1 lane each!!! However drive a few miles and then it is a great 2 lane highway (1 lane each way with room to pull off to the side if need be) but a few more kilometres and it is back to 1 lane!! It is also likely to have cattle wandering across it.
We turned off the highway at Georgetown and headed south towards Forsayth. After about 13 kilometres of good road (better than the highway) we hit dirt road. We could only average about 45 kph as the dirt has quite a few corrugations. Arrived at Forsayth for afternoon tea at 2:50.
The last 10 km into Forsayth was tar and the first 3 km out was tar (just to the airstrip where there was an RFDS – Royal Flying Doctor Service plane). The gravel this time was not quite so bad and we averaged 50 kph but we also had a few creek crossings to contend with.
Arrived at Cobbold Gorge at 4:12 and booked in. We have been told that there is a coach doing the gorge tour in the morning at 8:00 so our 10:00 tour has been put back to 11:00. This means it will not finish until 2:00 and then we have about a 4 hour drive to Undara so we will be pushing it tomorrow (but keeping it safe as the kangaroos will be out in the last evening).
Tea was in the dining room and we both had home-made meat (steak) pie with vegies and then Joy had Chocolate Pudding and Les had Cheesecake (the only 2 options). The group from the coach were in for tea as well. We’d estimate there were around 30 of them, and they took up 3 large tables. They were all older folk, but they didn’t seem to know one another because they were all wearing name tags, so maybe it was one of those Over-55 tours. One table wanted the air conditioning was turned off because they felt it was too cold. A little later, the other table asked for the air conditioning to be turned on because it was too hot! The lady in charge of the dining area had a small dummy spit, and told them to sort it out.
After tea we sat outside. Today would have to be the warmest day we’ve had so far, but at least out here it is dry heat, and not at all humid. It was very pleasant sitting outside this evening. Les tried taking photos of the stars which we can see very clearly as there is no moon up yet and there is no light pollution. They do have some spotlights on and when these are turned off it will probably get even better.
Day 27 Cobbold Gorge to Undara 233 km
Is it getting boring saying we woke to another beautiful day? Too bad – it happened again this morning. We had the chance for a sleep in today because our tour wasn’t leaving until 11am, but we were awake before 7am. The tour group that was going on the 8am tour of the gorge weren’t too noisy, I think we were just awake because we were awake.
We had breakfast outside the cabin, looking across towards the swimming pool and dam, watching the birds. The outdoor table was a big rock with a flat top – why buy fancy furniture when nature does the job?
After we’d had breakfast and packed the car, we had about an hour and a half until the tour started, so we sat in front of the cabin, waiting until it was time to reasonably head over to the bar/café/restaurant to get Joy a coffee. While we were sitting there, the couple who were staying in the cabin next to us came over for a chat. They were also going on the 11am tour, so had time to kill. They had visited Cobbold Gorge about 20 years ago, when it first opened to the public, and said it has changed a lot since then (not the gorge itself, but the facilities for the visitors). They are staying at Cobbold again tonight, then heading on to Undara tomorrow. On reflection, that is probably a better idea, instead of having to rush to get to Undara after the morning Gorge tour. Either that, or stay somewhere closer to Cobbold.
At 11am about 20 of us piled onto the 4WD bus/truck and headed off into the bush.
We had to cross a couple of creeks and the Robertson River to get to Cobbold Creek. The creeks had more water in them than the river – the water in the river is under the sand. We know there is water there, because that is where they get the water for the Cobbold Village from. Once at Cobbold Creek, we divided into 2 groups, and headed off up to the top of the escarpment. Along the way, we were told about the trees and the geology of the area. Once at the top, we could see down into the gorge. It was pretty impressive from up there, even the crocodiles that were sunning themselves on the rocks on the edge of the creek.
After checking out the view from the top, we wandered over to where a fellow called John Corbett is buried. He was a successful businessman way back when, and was heading off to make more money in a new town when, according to the headstone on his grave, he was “murdered by the blacks” in 1871.
It was then back to Cobbold Creek, and on to an electric-powered boat for a cruise up into the gorge. Because the boat is electric-powered, it makes next to no noise, which means you get the whole feeling of being out in the bush without the sound of a motor to spoil it.
The boat cruised very quietly up the gorge, past the crocodiles (we got very close to them, and hopefully have the photos to prove it),
and into the very narrow part of the gorge. It is quite beautiful.
As well as the crocodiles, we saw quite a number of fish, although they were pretty small, and birds.
As we were walking back to the bus, we saw a kingfisher on a branch near the creek.
Just after Les took a photo of it, it dived into the creek and came up with something in its beak, so we presume it was successful in catching its lunch. We can absolutely recommend Cobbold Gorge as a place to go.
Once we got back to Cobbold Village after the tour, just before 2pm, there was just time for a quick loo stop, before we were into the car and heading off again so we could get to Undara before it got dark. Les was not looking forward to driving on the corrugated road again.
This time we made better time, though, and we got to Forsayth just before 3pm, at which time we had our lunch (yes, we were a bit peckish).
We only really slowed down at Georgetown so we could look at the river (Etheridge River) as we crossed it. The river is another one of those that is very wide, very sandy, with lots of trees growing in it, and a very little bit of water on one side. That is probably a different story in the wet season, though.
Even though we were trying to get to Undara before dark, we still made a few stops for photos. One was in the Newcastle Range – there was a great view across the valley.
Another was at the bridge over the Einasleigh River – another one of those wide, sandy, tree-filled rivers, but this one has a brand-spanking-new bridge over it (perhaps something happened to the old bridge during the last, very wet, wet season?).
We stopped at Mt Surprise for fuel and to get some cold drinks. Today is by far the hottest day we have had so far, and we were a bit dehydrated. The guy in the servo (which was also a gem display) told it wasn’t warm enough yet to be needing to buy drinks, so I just told him we were wimpy southerners. Mind you, he shouldn’t be saying anything, since he was originally from Edinburgh! It’s a long way from Edinburgh to Mt Surprise! (NOTE: We found out the next day that it had got to 35 degrees at Undara Village which is close to Mt Surprise – well in Queensland terms as it is only 50 k or so!!!)
The other task to be done at Mt Surprise was to wash down the car. This is to prevent the spread of weeds. They have an automated washing system, so that makes it pretty easy to do.
Between Mt Surprise and the turnoff to Undara, we sighted an emu, and some pigs. Most of the pigs were alive, but there were a couple that were roadkill – the smell was awful.
Point to note – the condition of Highway 1 varies greatly in Queensland. These are Highway 1 all taken within 15 km of each other.
We made it to Undara at 5:30pm or so – yes! We quickly unpacked into our train carriage accommodation, before going to dinner.
The dining area is under a HUGE roof. There are no walls, but the area is surrounded on 3 sides by train carriages.
Les had fish (barramundi) and chips and vegies, followed by passionfruit cheesecake. Joy had vegetarian stir-fry, followed by a cappuccino (and a few spoonfuls of Les’ cheesecake).
Then back to the our train carriage to do the diary and photos – with all the windows open and the fan blowing, trying to cool it down.
Day 28 Undara 0 km
We set the alarm for this morning as we needed to be up, showered, breakfast, etc. and at reception by 7:55 for our 8:00 tour. Well we did not need the alarm as we had slept with one side of the blinds open and it gets light at about 6:00. It was warm last night so it was only a sheet and no blanket. Compare this to Yungabarra which is only about 200 km away where we needed a doona!! By sleeping with the blind open we were also able to lie in bed last night and look at the stars between the trees.
Before the tour we invested in some ice for the esky as the ice bricks had not frozen at Cobbold, there is no fridge in the carriages and as we said it had been 35 the day before. We shared the ice with the people in the end carriage as they needed to keep some things cold and we had more than we could use. This is the way of the Grey Nomads in the Great Outback!!! After packing the esky and putting some ice in our drink bottles we set off on the tour. We visited several lava tubes, some of which we simply scrambled into, had a look and then scrambled out of. But there was one that we entered and walked a couple of hundred metres before coming out a different entrance (or is that exit?). Fortunately there were a few torches as you need them in some parts. Les had not brought the tripod so most of the photos are going to be flash but he also found some rocks to rest the camera on for some longer time exposure shots.
We then jumped back on the little coach and headed off for a morning tea stop at an old hut. There were 2 ‘unisex loos with a view’. This meant they only had walls on 3 sides so when sitting doing your thing you had a view of the countryside. After morning tea we headed to another couple of tubes. Both these tubes have water in them and in the second one Les was brave and took his shoes and socks off and wandered along the boardwalk with water just above his ankles. The water was cool and refreshing.
We have not said yet but the tubes are quite large with some measuring between 10 & 15 metres in height and the same width. They were formed when lava flowed down the slopes and the top layer cooled and set but the lava underneath was still molten and kept flowing. When the volcano stopped the lava still continued flowing and ran out the other end. The guide explained it like the water running out of the garden hose!!
The guide (a Kiwi) was commenting on how hot it is and thought we would probably get to 35 degrees or so again today. Arrived back at the village at about 12:00 and after a rest had lunch on the verandah of the carriage we are staying in.
A quiet afternoon and there have been some dark clouds starting to form so will be interesting to see what happens.
At about 4:00 we got rain!!! (well there were at least 5 or 6 drops!!) We were working out if we should take wet weather gear on the sunset tour and if we would even get a sunset when it came out fine again so no wet weather gear needed. At 4:45 we went and checked out the shop. The T-Shirts and hats are very expensive. T Shirts were $55 and caps $18. At 5:15 we headed off on the bus tour, just 8 of us and the guide.
The first part of the tour was looking for macropods (i.e. kangaroo type animals). There are 9 species in the area but we only spotted 3, Pretty face wallaby, Eastern Grey Kangaroo & Wallaroo. Les also spotted a Wedge Tailed Eagle perched in the top of a dead tree.
We arrived at the hill for sunset after a short walk from the bus and had a spectacular sunset as there was cloud, clear sky and rain in various parts of the sky. We enjoyed bubbly (Joy) and Orange Juice (Les) and cheese, biscuits and fruit while watching the sunset.
Next stop was a lava tube that is home to hundreds of micro bats (i.e. little bats) that come out at sunset to feed. They leave the tube and fly around to feed and then come back. This can take minutes or hours so we saw them leaving but also some returning. When I say saw, it was just black shapes flashing past us but then we got to have a few goes at flash photos. Unfortunately one of these goes did not work well for Les as he left the lens cap on. When taking photos in the dark with a flash the view through the view finder is black with or without the lens cap on. Next time he got it right!!
Arrived back for tea at about 7:20 and settled down in our carriage at about 8:40.
Day 29 Undara to Charters Towers 389 km
We only had a short day of driving today, so didn’t worry about setting the alarm to wake us up. As it was, we were awake before 6:30am, as once again it was a beautiful day – lovely blue skies, and just enough of a breeze to mean it wasn’t unbearably hot.
After breakfast on outside our train carriage, we packed the car and headed off at 8:30am towards Charters Towers. Our first photo stop, though, was before we even made it to the highway, as Joy sighted a bustard sitting in the grass on the side of the road.
After that, it was just straight driving, and we were at The Lynd for morning tea. The area we’ve been in for the last few days is Road Train territory, and it’s been interesting driving on the narrow roads when you meet one. To give you an idea, this is a typical road train – it was parked at The Lynd.
As you can see, our little car doesn’t make much of an impression when compared to the road train. On the roads in Road Train territory, they let you know what you are supposed to do if you meet one.
It makes a lot of sense to follow these instructions when you see what the roads are like.
We had another photo stop before lunch, because Les spotted a good (and safe) place to stop so we could get some photos of the dry riverbeds that Joy likes so much.
Finding somewhere for lunch seemed like it was going to be a challenge because rest areas with picnic tables are few and far between in this area of QLD. We did see a sign for the next one, but since it was 85km away, we hoped we’d find something before then. Just before a place called Christmas Creek, we found a place – a rest area for road trains, with toilets and picnic area with shade – what else could we ask for? Maybe ordinary cars aren’t supposed to stop there, but no-one else was using it, so we stopped.
Whilst we were there, we heard a truck coming for miles, as it was doing that whole braking by changing down gears thing. And yes, it pulled in to “our” rest area. It was the road train we took the photos of at The Lynd! He didn’t stay long, though, just long enough to get out of the truck and walk around the whole thing. He was carrying a cattle prod (Les was worried he was going to use it on us for stopping in “his” rest area), and we presume he was checking that all the cattle on the trailers were standing upright.
We finished lunch just before 1pm and were on the road again. Along the way, we spotted some emus (we’ve only seen about 3 or 4 in our whole trip), and some camels about 40km north of Charters Towers.
It was 2:30pm when we arrived at Charters Towers, where we checked in, put the washing on, then went into town for a look to see if there is anything promising to go to for tea. Having checked it out, we will probably have hamburgers, then head to McDonalds for dessert (thickshake – note we are NOT eating McDonalds hamburgers) and to load the blog.
NOTE: Macca's at Charters Towers also cannot supply a thick shake as their machine is also broken!!!
